Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Kevin Pogue, Ian Krueger, May 1993
Page Views: 755 total · 9/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Apr 9, 2012 with improvements by Tiffany Samson
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

This route follows the obvious set of 10 or 11 closely spaced and right-leaning bolts in the center of the tilted pillars. Most of the challenging climbing comes in the first half and consists of cryptic mantles and wide stances. You can either start from the ground near the trail or from the top of the short broken pillars at the start of the route.

Protection

10 bolts. Optional gear (2" cam) if starting from the ground. Anchor chains.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
One could supplement the old bolts with a few cams on the way up. The bolting is ok, but sorta off at the lower crux and really spread out up higher, but the climbing is easier up higher.
FA:
Kevin Pogue, Ian Krueger, May 1993. Nov 5, 2014
Lan Dogan
Seattle, WA
Lan Dogan   Seattle, WA
Low crux, eases as you climb. Fun route. Apr 6, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
The rusty 1/4" machine bolts don't give one much confidence. Feb 22, 2016
beebeks  
Thanks for mentioning those Geoff! We wished the bolts were more inspiring as well. Feb 23, 2016
What's up with those chains? No mallion connection, more like a chain that was opened and then cinched closed around the hanger? Oct 8, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
 
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
 
Wow, the bolting on this can make or break you depending on your height. Clipping the first bolt requires a wide stance with a left foot on a 3-tiered foot hold off the ledge. Setting the draw would be more dangerous for someone about 5’5” or shorter b/c you would have to climb above this solid stance in a more precarious position with the first bolt about 20 feet off the ground. So stick clip or gear placement below is recommended for shorties. Stiff climbing at the bottom especially from the 2nd to 4th bolts. A tall person could clip the third bolt from a good stance. Others will have to work their way up the crack and clip from higher. The stemming isn’t typical stemming - its very wide angle and in a few instances there are small footchips on the right side. Other times you need to keep your feet off left. You can use the very soft dihedral on the right side for hand, but for the 3rd to 4th bolt it’s all that left crack or a couple of slopey holds to help reposition body. With the crack, you can do a little bit of a sidepull with it or finger lock with some foot smearing off left. Then it becomes more slabby. A couple of pull-ups w/ smearing because there are high feet. Some mantels. Then easier climbing. Beware at the top left for choss. I thought the crux was stiff and that overall the route was harder than Boschido, but it’s also a totally different style so maybe not a fair comparison. Mar 26, 2019
Ian Edison
Seattle
  5.10b/c
Ian Edison   Seattle
  5.10b/c
There's now a set of bolts to the left that felt much harder. I fell on the left route so I traversed over to do the easier line. It felt harder than 10a, but the low angle made it very doable. Not physically hard, but tricky, and a nice break from the typical Vantage jug-hauls. Apr 1, 2019