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Routes in Shrinking Arete (AKA Shadow Cast) Boulder

Shrinking Arête (AKA Shadow Cast) V6-7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 11 ft
FA: Philip Mothena and Ed (Circa 2004)
Page Views: 149 total, 2/month
Shared By: Aaron Parlier on Apr 9, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

First done in 2004 by Philip Mothena and Edward Lyman. We now know that these crushers called it Shrinking Arête.

Sit start and the low right edge of the arête on the small block at the base. Use the low side-pull and far right foot at the low right side of the base. Lurch up and right to a pocket or higher sloper. Follow the low side of the arête to the top where you will negotiate the crimp rail. Swing feet left once on the crimp rail to a distant left foot hold and commence the tricky top out.

-As a side note, there is a resident bat that sleeps under the huge undercling hold to the far back of the boulder. Please do not disturb this little dude. He’s just chillin' and there is no problem near him... Even if there were, it’s his house so don’t mess with him.

Location

Shadow Cast

Protection

pads

Photos

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Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  V6
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  V6
Seems like swinging your feet out left makes this really hard, I kept a right heel on the crimps at the arete/lip and it makes the mantle a lot easier.. Mar 11, 2014