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Routes in West of CCC trail/Talus

2nd Wind V3 6A
Bachelor-ete V0 4
Back Scratcher V6 7A
Bad Backwards V9 7C
Brave Heart V5 6C PG13
Bubble Bee V4-5 6B+
Cory's Problem V2+ 5+
Dry Fired V7-8 7B
Easy Life V2 5+
Finger Pillar V5+ 6C+
Fist Fight V5 6C
Flux Boulder Classic V4 6B
Flux Warm-up V0 4
Fully Aroused V4 6B
Funeral Service V8 7B PG13
Gills Booger V2 5+
Groggy V2 5+
Heads Up Arete V1 5
Influx V4 6B
Lip-enstein V5 6C
Long Arm John V5 6C
Mixed, But Not Stirred V3 6A
Murder for Midgets V4 6B
Orgasm Arete V1 5
Pedestal, The V6 7A PG13
Piano, The V8- 7B PG13
Pulling Downs V5 6C
Purple Heart V5 6C
Purple Roof V3 6A
Purple Shadow V12 8A+
Rampart Roof 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V4 6B
Red Slab V0 4
Sea of Purple V5 6C
Sketch Slab V3 6A PG13
Slab of Doom V4 6B PG13
Space Pants V3-4 6A+
Sticky Arete V3 6A
Still Sleeping V1 5
Undertaker Arete, The V3 6A PG13
Unnamed V5 6C
White Vein V3 6A
Witness the Slickness V10- 7C+
Z's Arete V1 5
Z's Face V2 5+
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Type: Boulder
FA: Mike Lohre
Page Views: 1,709 total · 21/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Apr 8, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

You'll find this monster directly below Brinton's Buttress. Move down through the talus until you come upon a large overhanging boulder with a huge roof fist crack. The Good - it's a giant roof crack. The Bad - it's painful as hell. Tape is highly recommended.

Location

Too the left of the Murder for Midgets boulder

Protection

Bring like 3-4 pads for this one. The second half protects well, but the first half is kinda shitty.

Photos

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V5
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V5
This thing is quite amazing. Hurts like hell, but it draws you in...you can't fight it...you must climb it. Apr 8, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Is this thing really V6?! How wide is this crack? It looks like 4" and maybe a fist crack? I gotta snag the FA when I'm back in town so ya'll best not waste your time trying to claim it. Suckas! Apr 9, 2012
Wow, this looks my style, I want it. Apr 9, 2012
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
I dunno, could be V8+, or V4, personally I have no idea how to jam anything past fist, so I couldn't really tell lol

I think if you reach deep enough it could stay fist jams, but it slowly widens towards the lip. Apr 10, 2012
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
This looks tasty! Gonna definitely git on it next time down there. Apr 10, 2012
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
What size crack is that? Apr 10, 2012
Mr Mix sent yesterday. Big deep fists are needed. I could barely get it started and took a nasty upside down fall, several pads are good with some creative spotting. Apr 11, 2012
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
If I had a quarter for each time someone told me that 'Big deep fists are needed'... Apr 11, 2012
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Wow that was fast! Nice job Mike! Apr 11, 2012
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
 
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
 
Thanks to Remo, Vinny, and Nick for helping me drag down a stack of pads and attempting to spot me. This is definitely a unique climb. I'm hoping other crack lovers will get on this. It is easy to find about 100 feet under Gill's Nose at the base of a huge white pine. The crack is about 4 inches wide and tapers as it goes up (big fists will fit low in the crack, smaller handed folks need to shove their arms much further up. I started fists and feet in the crack as far right as I could and slowly (and painfully) made my way out. It takes a special kind of person to like this one! John could you change the name to "Fist Fight". Apr 11, 2012
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V5
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V5
Name changed. Whats ur grade on this Mike? Apr 11, 2012
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
This is the most impressive thing I have seen Mr. Mix do. Great work Mike! Apr 13, 2012
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V5
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V5
Thx buddy. Apr 15, 2012
a real blue collar problem! v5 or under. Apr 30, 2012
I think for the true send one would have to get as deep as possible in the back of the alcove without their back touching the other rock and their feet facing out, then shuffle the fists a bit until they can swing the legs around to the back. I don't think it has been sent this way yet. All of us thus far were starting roughly in the middle of the crack with out feet facing inward. May 5, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
The full line is hereby called Deep Fisting. May 5, 2012
Dobbe  
Chris would that not be Double Deep Fisting!! May 6, 2012

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