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Routes in The Throne

Forgotten Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magnum P.I. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Petticoat T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderstruck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: M. Frichette and D. Hare, 1970s.
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good climb once you get going... if this is your sort of thing. If you like OW/squeeze, it is perfect. If you don't, it is hell.

The beginning 7 meters of the route are dingy and poor but soon leads to better moves on good rock and good protection for a second 7 meters, including what may be the crux for some climbers. Beyond that point, it is you, your wide gear, and what you choose to do with it. The crack is splitter, solid, and wide. Some smaller gear (to 2") can be placed to the right of the crack at mid-height for a break from the wide gear.

Location

This route starts in an unattractive, dingy, broken corner just left of the North arete of the formation, on the East side. It climbs that for about 7 meters to reach better, cleaner rock. The route ducks under a hanging flake that forms a roof and goes into an increasingly wide crack that leans to the right for the rest of its length to a ledge with a 2 bolts anchor, as for Petticoat.

Protection

From first knuckle to as wide as you have... the top portion will be considerably runout without Valley Giants or Big Bros. Take all of the widest gear you have and a lot of long slings for the beginning.

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