Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||M. Frichette and D. Hare, 1970s.|
|Page Views:||73 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 7, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a good climb once you get going... if this is your sort of thing. If you like OW/squeeze, it is perfect. If you don't, it is hell.
The beginning 7 meters of the route are dingy and poor but soon leads to better moves on good rock and good protection for a second 7 meters, including what may be the crux for some climbers. Beyond that point, it is you, your wide gear, and what you choose to do with it. The crack is splitter, solid, and wide. Some smaller gear (to 2") can be placed to the right of the crack at mid-height for a break from the wide gear.
LocationThis route starts in an unattractive, dingy, broken corner just left of the North arete of the formation, on the East side. It climbs that for about 7 meters to reach better, cleaner rock. The route ducks under a hanging flake that forms a roof and goes into an increasingly wide crack that leans to the right for the rest of its length to a ledge with a 2 bolts anchor, as for Petticoat.
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