Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 95 ft|
|FA:||S. Kimball, D. Snively, and B. Gillett, 1999.|
|Page Views:||325 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 7, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a delicate and technical route from the bottom up. The crux lies somewhere in the lower half, but where depends upon the climber's style.
The Gillett book suggests that there is a fixed stopper on the route in the long but moderate runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts (ground-fall possible), but there is not presently one there. I would have been happier were I carrying some cams or stoppers from 3/4" - 2" and placed some gear.
LocationThis route is the obvious and only bolted line starting from the ground on the west side of the North-facing arete, a relative low point of the rock. The trail leads up to this area. A good base below it is gained by hiking around to the south and up, or ducking under a boulder and going through on the North side of the arete.
The route goes up past 3 bolts, crosses a wide crack (Thunderstruck) at a chockstone, and runs it out up and left to gain a line of 3 more bolts.
The ledge on top bears an obvious anchor. One can rap from that, or continue for 2 more pitches to the summit on the upper 1/2 of Magnum PI, which is 5.9+ "adventure climbing."
Protection6 draws to a 2 bolt anchor with no cord or chain. A cordelette is nice to have up top, and if you plan to bail off after 1 pitch, you'll be leaving something behind to rap from- cord & biners or links.
The (very) long runout on 5.7 climbing between bolts 3 and 4 can be virtually eliminated with 3/4"-2" cams or stoppers.