Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Throne

Forgotten Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magnum P.I. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Petticoat T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderstruck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: S. Kimball, D. Snively, and B. Gillett, 1999.
Page Views: 325 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a delicate and technical route from the bottom up. The crux lies somewhere in the lower half, but where depends upon the climber's style.

The Gillett book suggests that there is a fixed stopper on the route in the long but moderate runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts (ground-fall possible), but there is not presently one there. I would have been happier were I carrying some cams or stoppers from 3/4" - 2" and placed some gear.

Location

This route is the obvious and only bolted line starting from the ground on the west side of the North-facing arete, a relative low point of the rock. The trail leads up to this area. A good base below it is gained by hiking around to the south and up, or ducking under a boulder and going through on the North side of the arete.

The route goes up past 3 bolts, crosses a wide crack (Thunderstruck) at a chockstone, and runs it out up and left to gain a line of 3 more bolts.

The ledge on top bears an obvious anchor. One can rap from that, or continue for 2 more pitches to the summit on the upper 1/2 of Magnum PI, which is 5.9+ "adventure climbing."

Protection

6 draws to a 2 bolt anchor with no cord or chain. A cordelette is nice to have up top, and if you plan to bail off after 1 pitch, you'll be leaving something behind to rap from- cord & biners or links.

The (very) long runout on 5.7 climbing between bolts 3 and 4 can be virtually eliminated with 3/4"-2" cams or stoppers.

Photos

The halfway mark on my 70m rope had passed through my belay device by the time Ross reached the two-bolt anchor. Sufficient rope lay on the ground when I rapped. Cams and stoppers thinner than 3/4 inches were placed, along with gear wider than 3/4 inches. Oct 31, 2016