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Routes in The Throne

Air to the Throne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ambiguity Arete T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
East-Side Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East-Side Seam T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Forgotten Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Passage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Magnum P.I. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petticoat T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Porcelain Throne T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right of Passage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Stuff T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeezed to Death T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezin' One Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thrown a Loop T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thunderstruck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: S. Kimball, D. Snively, and B. Gillett, 1999.
Page Views: 363 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is a delicate and technical route from the bottom up. The crux lies somewhere in the lower half, but where depends upon the climber's style.

The Gillett book suggests that there is a fixed stopper on the route in the long but moderate runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts (ground-fall possible), but there is not presently one there. I would have been happier were I carrying some cams or stoppers from 3/4" - 2" and placed some gear.


This route is the obvious and only bolted line starting from the ground on the west side of the North-facing arete, a relative low point of the rock. The trail leads up to this area. A good base below it is gained by hiking around to the south and up, or ducking under a boulder and going through on the North side of the arete.

The route goes up past 3 bolts, crosses a wide crack (Thunderstruck) at a chockstone, and runs it out up and left to gain a line of 3 more bolts.

The ledge on top bears an obvious anchor. One can rap from that, or continue for 2 more pitches to the summit on the upper 1/2 of Magnum PI, which is 5.9+ "adventure climbing."


6 draws to a 2 bolt anchor with no cord or chain. A cordelette is nice to have up top, and if you plan to bail off after 1 pitch, you'll be leaving something behind to rap from- cord & biners or links.

The (very) long runout on 5.7 climbing between bolts 3 and 4 can be virtually eliminated with 3/4"-2" cams or stoppers.


The halfway mark on my 70m rope had passed through my belay device by the time Ross reached the two-bolt anchor. Sufficient rope lay on the ground when I rapped. Cams and stoppers thinner than 3/4 inches were placed, along with gear wider than 3/4 inches. Oct 31, 2016

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