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Costao
5.7,
Sport, 1000 ft (303 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 10
votes
FA: Henrietta Casteirs 1817
International
> S America
> Brazil
> Rio de Janeiro
> Urca (Pao de Ac…
> Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
Description
This is a long 4th class scramble up the east face of Pao de Acucar. There is a 100 foot section of vertical 5.7 about half way up the face. Although short and fairly straight forward, it is technical climbing and should not be taken as a 4th class scramble.
Location
East face of Pao de Acucar. Take the paved trail to its end, then start hiking and scrambling up the east face of the formation.
[Hide Photo] This is where we told V ( who had never climbed anything in his life) that he should do his best to avoid falling, because he's probably get really hurt or die.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the climb from above the 5.6 section.
[Hide Comment] A fire in appx Jan 2021 burned part of the lower part of this route. The damaged vegetation left the area exposed and part of it has eroded away, leaving exposed rock that is moderately steep. (What used to apparently be good trail.) A less than ideal rope or two is in place to aid passage (still done by locals), but should not be relied upon. Still passable, but take care not to slip down the slope and fall into the ocean.
There is about 70' of Class 4 before the crux. The actual climb is accurate at about 5.7 with two old bolts to another old bolt and rod (for rappelling if descending the route). The actual climb is more like 30'. It IS "scramble-able" by the very brave, but not recommended for the vast majority. It had a couple of moves that didn't feel very secure to me.
The climbing is decent quality but very short. There is some ok scrambling on other parts of the route, but I'd say it's more about getting to the summit of Pão de Açucar and the views than the route itself.
It should be possible to go down the gondola (bondinho, operated until 7pm) for free (to Morro de Úrca) if you tell the operators that you climbed to the top. Then take the good trail back down to the Pista Cláudio Coutinho trail.
Also note that the Rock feels much less secure and can be downright slick in places when wet. Although probably passable after about half a day of drying, 1-2 days is probably better.
Jun 12, 2021
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There is about 70' of Class 4 before the crux. The actual climb is accurate at about 5.7 with two old bolts to another old bolt and rod (for rappelling if descending the route). The actual climb is more like 30'. It IS "scramble-able" by the very brave, but not recommended for the vast majority. It had a couple of moves that didn't feel very secure to me.
The climbing is decent quality but very short. There is some ok scrambling on other parts of the route, but I'd say it's more about getting to the summit of Pão de Açucar and the views than the route itself.
It should be possible to go down the gondola (bondinho, operated until 7pm) for free (to Morro de Úrca) if you tell the operators that you climbed to the top. Then take the good trail back down to the Pista Cláudio Coutinho trail.
Also note that the Rock feels much less secure and can be downright slick in places when wet. Although probably passable after about half a day of drying, 1-2 days is probably better. Jun 12, 2021