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Lagartao

5.11+, Trad, Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: Luis Belivacqua, Alex Pereira, George White, Jean Pierre, 1972
International > S America > Brazil > Rio de Janeiro > Urca (Pao de Ac… > Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…

Description

This is one of the more popular routes up the Totem, the huge pillar leaning on the south face of Pao de Acucar. It is a multi-pitch trad/sport route that has hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing. The first ascent party did it without sticky rubber and at the time it was one of the hardest routes in Brasil.

Location

The Totem is the obvious feature on the south face of the Pao de Acucar. Largartao starts up the big chimney and crack system on the south face of the Totem.

Protection

Bring a single rack from a number 1 camalot to a number 4 to protect the first pitch. The rest of the route is bolt protected, but be ready for some fun run outs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mingo on pitch five, above the Atlantic.
[Hide Photo] Mingo on pitch five, above the Atlantic.
Mingo on top of pitch 5.
[Hide Photo] Mingo on top of pitch 5.
Mingo leading the first pitch on Lagartao.
[Hide Photo] Mingo leading the first pitch on Lagartao.
The cool crux crack on Lagartao.
[Hide Photo] The cool crux crack on Lagartao.
Gotta love what salt water can to to steel!
[Hide Photo] Gotta love what salt water can to to steel!