Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 570 total · 6/month
Shared By: Matt Lawry on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Another great one. Even though it has a bouldery start, the steep angle requires some endurance above.

Clamber up to a series of stacked blocks just below the first clip. Be gentle - these blocks might go if someone pulls outwards too hard. Get through the crimpy crux between the first and third bolt, then hang on for the ride! The first few tries I thought I had it in the bag after the 3rd bolt, but the pump spit me off near the top! Fun juggy climbing takes you to the 7th bolt where a decision must be made. The path of least resistance is to climb leftwards 5 feet, up through jugs, then back rightwards to the 8th draw. If jugs bore you, you may decide to move directly between the 7th and 8th bolt on bad crimps - hard! Might bump the route up a letter grade. Shares the last draw or two of Total Eclipse.

Location

see pic.

Protection

9ish bolts to a two bolt anchor - all fixed draws. Because of the questionable blocks down low, stick clipping the first is recommended.

Photos

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