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Routes in Solstice Cave

Essence of Darkness S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Eternal Sunshine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fireball S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamer S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hail Bop S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hail Mary S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Infernal Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
It Knocks Your Socks Off S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
It Put's the Buff On S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scorcher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solstice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Into Frantic Oblivion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Total Eclipse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 170 total · 2/month
Shared By: MattL on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Despite some loose rock near the second bolt, this route is really fun and will probably clean up with more traffic. Bouldery crux down low like its neighbor Solstice, but another powerful section awaits at the third bolt.

Climb up to a horizontal break just beneath the steep roof. Grab some small pockets and make dynamic moves to gain the lip. The second clip is difficult. Heel hook, or campus up some slopers and get established above the roof. Rest on some rather large pockets, and be careful of loose flakes. I pulled a brick sized hold off here (difficulty unchanged). A second powerful crux at the fourth bolt guards the gigantic cave rest. Once recovered, keep it together for the last 15-20 feet of pumpy 11d climbing to the chains.

Location

Left of eternal sunshine, right of solstice. Look for the steepest part of the lower roof on the rhs of the cave.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor - all fixed draws. Stick clipping the first draw is highly recommended. If you don't have an attentive belayer, you may consider stick clipping the second as well.

Photos

Really fun route, I would suggest stick clipping the first 2 bolts. Jan 6, 2014

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