Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Triad

Beauty T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Forgotten, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Truth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ugly Sister, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vegabondage T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Virtue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wisdom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 210 ft
FA: Joe Herbst
Page Views: 898 total, 13/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Apr 6, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Truth starts in the steep hand to fist/wide crack that leads to the entrance of a massive chimney chasm. Place your lucky piece and begin the long voyage up the chimney. Follow it until it eventually tightens and squeezes you out to easy stemming to the top. A long pitch.

Belay off slung block or tree and descend by rapping Beauty with a 70m.

Location

The huge V cut crack in the center of the "triad" wall.

Protection

one hand sized, a few fist size, big cams, bro(s), or run out

Photos

As I began the strenuously stomach curling chimney moves towards the ledge marked by safety and comfort. I considered slowly sliding back down the chimney and walking away from it, to forever haunt my dreams and inner thoughts. After catching my breath with bloody knees jammed between the two deeply varnished walls of the chasm I chose to continue a couple inches upward to see how it felt. Luckily there were concentric iron rich nodules that I delicately tip toed upon allowing a brief reprieve for my poor battered knees. Looking upward and deep into the chimney I couldn't believe my eyes; Slick varnish, splitting deep into the Cactus Flower Tower, no pro insight. I began to think of Joe Herbst's mantra, "loose as ashes, thin as frog hair and finally decided that I will put everything that I have into grunting and squeezing through to get to safety. climbing the outside of the chimney would have been much easier but with a potential 80 footer I squeezed as far back into the chimney as my sternum and over sized head would allow. My overloaded rack which I was hoping to place as protection was forcefully grinding upon the stone making every inch of upward movement a task of brute force. After what seemed like hours the chimney narrowed even more which thankfully allowed for me to stack my feet and place my huge VG bring me great joy and elation. Fun squeeze climbing led to the top and I thought to my self "how did Joe only rate this one 5.6? How did he climb it? Did he have a monster tube chock? I slung a large boulder on top of the chasm and as I looked into the vast sandstone wilderness; the mountains, animals, and plant life seemed to swirl and mix together as if the truth was that nothing was real. Sep 24, 2017