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Routes in Settore Centrale

Fessura Oliva S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
L'Arco dei Guaitechi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sipario di pietra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Oliva 1979
Page Views: 196 total · 3/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 6, 2012
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

A bit tired of crimps and finger pockets? This route will cure ya!

P1: A stout start, slightly overhanging but with an amazing and secure hand jam or two. Follow the left-curing crack with initially poor feet, a few awkward, uncomfy moves, then face climb up to the grove of trees for some rest in the shade.

P2: Yeah, its wide. Bolts on the face to the right. Can be liebacked a bit, insecurely. Offwidth technique comes in handy. Fairly steep and strenuous.

When the crack rolls over a bit, step right and use thin crack and face features to finish pitch.

Unique, physical and fun. A nice break from the standard pocket pulls!

Location

Located on the right side of the orange scoop to the right of the crag i.d. plaque.

Obvious left curving steep crack start, to tree'd belay station. Second pitch wide crack hard to discern from below.

Protection

Set of quickdraws and a couple of slings for the trees.

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