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> Finale Ligure
> Monte Sordo
> Settore Centrale
L'Arco dei Guaitechi
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 6
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Routes in Settore Centrale
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Fessura Oliva S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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L'Arco dei Guaitechi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sipario di pietra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 195 ft (59 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | G. Calcagno, A. Grillo 1973 |
| Page Views: | 1,398 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Apr 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
The classic and historic lieback and corner crack at Monte Sordo!
Originally called, "Via della Marcia".
Long, strenuous and somewhat awkward. A great outing.
Pitch 1: Get your guns loaded, climb up the short slab to the crack, then lieback up and tough your way up through the first couple of clips. Rock is a little polished through here, making it seem even more insecure. At least its steeper than it looks (!). Follow the corner up (hard to get lost) milking stems, the face, back scums, to a fixed anchor that's 90 or so feet up at a semi uncomfy belay station.
Pitch 2: continue up the corner on tricky face and thin corner moves. Soon enough, the roof above becomes possible to grab on top of, which is where a couple of bolts will be found for protection (couple of should length slings prudent here for clipping into the bolts which are well away from the edge). Follow the curve until its possible to climb back to the left to the exposed belay station.
Great views from the top of the crag!
Sweaty in the sun. In warmer climes, hope for a breeze at least, as, especially the first pitch will feel like a furnace.
Descent: rappel route, or, swing over to the anchor on Sipario di Pietra (climber's right) and rappel to the ground from there.
Originally called, "Via della Marcia".
Long, strenuous and somewhat awkward. A great outing.
Pitch 1: Get your guns loaded, climb up the short slab to the crack, then lieback up and tough your way up through the first couple of clips. Rock is a little polished through here, making it seem even more insecure. At least its steeper than it looks (!). Follow the corner up (hard to get lost) milking stems, the face, back scums, to a fixed anchor that's 90 or so feet up at a semi uncomfy belay station.
Pitch 2: continue up the corner on tricky face and thin corner moves. Soon enough, the roof above becomes possible to grab on top of, which is where a couple of bolts will be found for protection (couple of should length slings prudent here for clipping into the bolts which are well away from the edge). Follow the curve until its possible to climb back to the left to the exposed belay station.
Great views from the top of the crag!
Sweaty in the sun. In warmer climes, hope for a breeze at least, as, especially the first pitch will feel like a furnace.
Descent: rappel route, or, swing over to the anchor on Sipario di Pietra (climber's right) and rappel to the ground from there.
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