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Routes in The Spy

007 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Spy Vs. Spy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 730 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Apr 6, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The South Face of The Spy is steep and featured and therefore inviting. There are a couple of other possible lines here, but the protection and rock quality on those are suspect. This route is the most obvious weakness to the right of the big tree and the bird poop stains.... Named for one of the most famous spies of all time, I was really hoping 007 would be 5.7, and luckily enough that feels about right. This has most likely been climbed before, if not, it should get climbed some more.... The middle section has some awkward moves and a little suspect rock, but if you have a rope, there is tons of good gear. When you approach the lip, the rock quality is as good as anywhere in the Flatirons, and you won't want it to end. The crack gains the East Ridge right before its crux bulge. You can belay here and do one pitch to the top of The Spy.

Location

This is the crack on the South Face of The Spy. It starts in the gully in-between The Spy and the First Flatironette.
This may be the same crack as the route Spy Vs. Spy but on the opposite side of the formation. You can see daylight through the crack in a few places....

There are a couple ways to get to the start:

1) Start up East Ridge till the point you have to step up the little headwall, but instead walk up the gully on the left.

2) Climb any route up the First Flatironette. When you step off the top, head North across the gully.

Protection

Light standard rack.

Photos

Cor
Cor  
This line has been soloed up since last summer.... Wayne Crill may be the man who has done it first. Although people have probably have been climbing it for many years.

We use it on our after work 5 @ 5 (2nd, Flatironette, Spy, 1st, Sunset Flatironette). Apr 6, 2012

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