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Routes in Squirrel Rock

Escape to Queen Mountain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Nuts Needed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Nut Needed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Searching for Nuts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Kevin Daniels & Tony Sartin
Page Views: 479 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Apr 4, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fantastic line is actually located on a long buttress of rock about 50 yards to the east of Squirrel Rock/Upper Walt's Rock. The route more-or-less follows the blunt southern arĂȘte of the formation.

This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to lack of traffic. Adequately protected and a worthy tick. Easily 3/4 stars.

Location

On a separate buttress of rock to the east of Squirrel Rock and Upper Walt's. Rappel from the north side of the formation from bolts with a single rope.

Protection

4 bolts, gear from fingers to 2". A single set of cams should suffice. Gear anchor, with bolted rappel station on the north side of the rock.

Photos

roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.9
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.9
Nice exposed climbing on steep featured rock - long pitch! More or less well protected, as long as you don't break a hold on the upper part. 10a seems like a bit of a stretch, too. Feb 5, 2013