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Routes in Third Buttress

Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Sexgiving S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joli goes to zermont S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moselstra├če S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pondel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shake And Not Stir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermoon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (Dragon's Tail) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jim Patton
Page Views: 215 total, 3/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route justifies the long hike to the third buttress. It climbs a sweeping parabolic wall with no discontinuities. The movement is athletic and thuggish.

Begin by climbing through two bolts of slopey jugs, being sure to use your heels effectively to make the steep angle more manageable. The third bolt is a bit tricky to clip, so it would be to your advantage to pre-hang the draw with a really long stick. The crux is around the third bolt and can be done a couple different ways. Post crux the angle gets more vertical and the climbing eases. One last surprising sequence is encountered a bolt below the chains. Use some strange two finger pockets and a couple small edges before manteling out the final ledge.

The rock on this one is a bit suspect in spots, but the movement makes up for what it lacks in rock quality.

Location

Far right side of the third Buttress. Last route in the cave.

Protection

8 bolts + anchor

Photos

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