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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 1,106 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matt Schroer on Apr 1, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Plenty of good features on this long, straight forward climb. Would be a great first time lead for the aspiring trad climber at the city - easy climbing, sufficient places for pro, lots of options for anchor building at top.

Location

Route is located to the right of Pluton Playground near the tree. Follow the hard to see white dyke halfway up the wall, then pick the line of least resistance. Walk off to the left or use the fixed anchors to the right of the route (says 100 feet in the Bingham guide, might consider 2 ropes for rap).

Protection

Standard rack up to size 3 camalot. Plenty of options for building an anchor at the top.

Photos

H2O
H2O  
Enjoyed the route. The climb is closer to 130'-140' if you start at the ground, belaying where the book shows would make it about 100' though it's not a great belay location. Once at the top one will climb down about 10' to get to the chains to rappel down. My 70 meter rope with stretch made it to the bottom. Jun 12, 2016
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.4
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.4
A good route for all passive gear, but you do need hexes. Thread the small window for first pro. Jun 8, 2015