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Routes in Corner Walls

Escape from Paradise (formerly unfinished route) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leave It To Beaver TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Micheladas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam-O-Rama S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scooter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stand and Deliver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Succulent Muffin Concept S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swag TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Upchuck Thrill S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome To Paradise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: ?????, Finished by Ryan Ray and Scott Rhode
Page Views: 292 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ryan Ray on Mar 30, 2012
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

This route has sat unfinished for many years with only one bolt and two anchors. It has been lead ground up and from traversing into it from Welcome to Paradise with only the one bolt. Due to ground fall potential, lack of traffic, and the fact that it sat for so long unfinished we decided to finish it.

Start from the block just left of Welcome to Paradise. Pull the ground level overhang through good edges until you catch the rail about midway up. (PLEASE NOTE: it is possible to take a groundfall from here while clipping the second bolt...however you have a great hold and good feet for making the clip. Just exercise caution.) Finish on good edges at a 2 bolt belay.

Protection

2 bolts, 2 anchors.

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Ryan, c'mon dude! This is 5.10 all day, and definitely not the kind you'd recommend to a 5.9 leader since it has some injury potential on 'necky' climbing that you make trivial with your height and reach. However I don't think anyone has a problem with this line being retrobolted and everyone I know is glad somebody finally did the deed. Thanks. I agree this climb is similar in difficulty to Sweet Action and Succulent Muffin Concept. Jan 31, 2013
Scott Strong
Dallas, TX
  5.10
Scott Strong   Dallas, TX
  5.10
The reaches are definitely gigantic if you're not 6'4". Mark is taller than me he didn't feel it was hard. So this is definitely height dependent. Jul 2, 2012
maddy  
nice job rr Jun 13, 2012
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
 
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
 
hey, maybe so. Felt 5.9ish to me, but then again, im a tall lanky fool. I can reach what others cant reach. May 7, 2012
Scott Strong
Dallas, TX
  5.10
Scott Strong   Dallas, TX
  5.10
I gotta say Ryan, I really feel that this route is as hard, if not harder than Sweet Action and really deserves a solid 5.10 rating. If not that, then at least 9+. Unless there is some super secret squirrel beta! May 5, 2012
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
 
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
 
I hope I did not step on anyones toes by finishing this route. It has been there unfinished for as long as I could remember. We left it alone for years thinking the original bolters would eventually return to finish what they started. If you were the original bolters...I apologize in advance if i stepped on your feet with this. Please contact me if you find this message. I would like to add your names to my Database of FA's at POB. Mar 30, 2012