Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Swain, 89
Page Views: 346 total · 4/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Mar 29, 2012
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Step off the boulder and into the thin crack, working the patina lip. Head up and right past a bolt on face holds.

Location

Left side of the Left Hand of Darkness, about 15 feet left of the start of Baby Huey.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
This is kinda sucky but maybe not. Shuffle your circus up to the belay area which is not that great. Small cams and a suspect nut or two will get you going in the crack. Vogel guide says go up to a left facing corner... there really is none... so continue up the thin crack on friable rock until your thin and suspect pro is well below your feet. Now you can clip the bolt, so I hear. I bailed left in a clusterfuck of gear and rope drag. The moves above the bolt seemed hard from my belay point on the ground.

Medium sized cams for the anchor. Descend to climbers left down some slabs. Jan 7, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
^^ what he said regarding gear, pseudo solid but not all that inspiring considering you're looking at a seam ahead which is then protected by a bolt. Stance to clip the bolt okay although gear is most definitely at your feet unless you're super psyched on a small shallow bass in a seam (partner was not). So, bolt clips but then there is this micro roof to pass over which is amazing difficult, as in "take" kinda difficult. Perhaps slightly better on the lead vs. TR as I wasn't super thrilled on coming off and raking our cord across the low angle grains above. On lead, it's well protected on TR you are veering right to the neighboring route so make an effort and summit using the slab overhead.

I dug deep for some move I've possibly never used before which was a palm, crimp with my right to gain the smearing dishes above. Not a fan of slab climbing or the idea of skirting across the summit on the fall I did a little complaining (mostly bitching on how we're going to kill our cord way too early into the season) but topped out all the same.

Okay route, not great but not a bomb. YMMV. Jan 7, 2014
Matt Hagny
  5.11a
Matt Hagny  
  5.11a
This route now has 4 new bolts, plus an anchor with rap rings! The only gear needed is a yellow offset nut between the 2d and 3d bolt.

I'm not sure whether the 4th bolt and anchor were installed in exactly the correct location, as the route now goes mostly straight up, rather than bending to the right as shown in the pic. Anyway, at "10a" it's one of the worst sandbags I've ran across in the park. There are 11a routes that are vastly easier than this. I had to resort to aid to get past the 4th bolt, and couldn't even figure a viable way to free it on TR. The only other 10a in the park I've ever had to aid is Spiderman, and it's flaring OW, so not completely unexpected for those of us without serious OW skills. But White Dopes is just face climbing, which I should've been able to figure out and pull, but couldn't. I've always known Mr. Swain to be conservative on grades, which I respect, but this is (insert expletive) ridiculous! (And I don't see where any holds have broken either)

The climbing up to the 4th bolt was really fun movement on vertical face, with unusual holds. 10b.

Btw, Miramontes lists these routes as being on the southwest face of Ken Black Memorial Dome, rather than the backside of Left Hand of Darkness. Oct 17, 2018