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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - West Face

Anti-Gravity Boots T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-Pipeload T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bamboozled Again T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Billy Barty Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gomma Cocida T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nose in a Day, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potato Masher T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Salathe Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
That's What She Said T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Dopes on Punk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Swain, 89
Page Views: 296 total, 4/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Mar 29, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Step off the boulder and into the thin crack, working the patina lip. Head up and right past a bolt on face holds.

Location

Left side of the Left Hand of Darkness, about 15 feet left of the start of Baby Huey.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
^^ what he said regarding gear, pseudo solid but not all that inspiring considering you're looking at a seam ahead which is then protected by a bolt. Stance to clip the bolt okay although gear is most definitely at your feet unless you're super psyched on a small shallow bass in a seam (partner was not). So, bolt clips but then there is this micro roof to pass over which is amazing difficult, as in "take" kinda difficult. Perhaps slightly better on the lead vs. TR as I wasn't super thrilled on coming off and raking our cord across the low angle grains above. On lead, it's well protected on TR you are veering right to the neighboring route so make an effort and summit using the slab overhead.

I dug deep for some move I've possibly never used before which was a palm, crimp with my right to gain the smearing dishes above. Not a fan of slab climbing or the idea of skirting across the summit on the fall I did a little complaining (mostly bitching on how we're going to kill our cord way too early into the season) but topped out all the same.

Okay route, not great but not a bomb. YMMV. Jan 7, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
This is kinda sucky but maybe not. Shuffle your circus up to the belay area which is not that great. Small cams and a suspect nut or two will get you going in the crack. Vogel guide says go up to a left facing corner... there really is none... so continue up the thin crack on friable rock until your thin and suspect pro is well below your feet. Now you can clip the bolt, so I hear. I bailed left in a clusterfuck of gear and rope drag. The moves above the bolt seemed hard from my belay point on the ground.

Medium sized cams for the anchor. Descend to climbers left down some slabs. Jan 7, 2014