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Routes in Storm King

North Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northeast Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bob Bliss, Don Jones, Andy Lichtman
Page Views: 1,642 total, 24/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Mar 29, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The north face is a dark, intimidating wall. Bob Bliss, however, in Rosebrough's guide, describes a "gentle flower-strewn-path-of-a-climb."

Rosebrough notes from personal correspondence with Bob: "Climb 40 feet to a ramp. From the ramp, climb right (west) up 3rd and 4th class ledges and short chimneys and then 70 feet of broken rock to a formation he called 'a bowl of tears.' At this point, climb up a steep, left-facing slab/dihedral and then 4 pitches up a chimney crack behind a great plate. Traverse 60 feet right (west) below the 'plate glass' smooth slabs and then 90 up feet via a crack in a left-facing dihedral with a small overhang at the top (5.7). Three long pitches of 3rd and 4th lead to snow and then up left (east) to a 'pass' climbing on dirt or mud. From here, 2 more easy pitches up broken blocks lead to the summit ridge."

Location

Start below the central black streak . . . .

Protection

Standard alpine rack.

Photos

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Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Very Kool! Aug 22, 2017
Fritz N.
Durango, CO
 
Fritz N.   Durango, CO
 
Ditto: aperfectweakness.com/2017/0… Aug 20, 2017
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
Ray Hellinger   Gunnison, CO
I climbed the NR of Storm King a few yrs ago. Here is a link to a write-up I did about it...http://www.summitpost.org/north-face/219066. Jul 3, 2012