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Its Only Rock and Roll

5.9, Trad, 710 ft (215 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Shingo Ohkawa Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads) 3/21/2012
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Eastern Reef Ar… > U Crags

Description

A superb climb with great situations. The hike to the formation takes just over an hour from Two Finger canyon camp.Starts slightly left of center up a left facing groove( see topo )

P1)Climb the groove that has good cam and wire placements and four pro bolts. to double Anchors slightly to the right right of its end. 200'5.9.
P2)Up slab on left past one bolt to double anchors on massive ledge system.60'5.5.
P3)Scramble up about 40'to a narrow ledge and follow down to the right to the start of an obvious right facing groove.140'
P4)Another excellent pitch .Climb the groove, good cam and wire placements and three pro bolts. Trend to the right near its top to double anchors below a left leaning groove. 170' 5.7.
P5).Follow easy groove to the summit and double anchors to the right.150'5.4
Register in small cairn.

Descent. Rap to anchors at top of the last pitch, then backtrack the anchors to the top of P1, then from here to the ground.

Location

Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)

Protection

Two 60m ropes.cams 1/2" to 3". wires.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul and Shingo. View to the north.
[Hide Photo] Paul and Shingo. View to the north.
Birthday party at Two Fingers Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Birthday party at Two Fingers Canyon.
Heading back to camp .La Sal Mountains in the distance.
[Hide Photo] Heading back to camp .La Sal Mountains in the distance.
Andy and Shingo.
[Hide Photo] Andy and Shingo.
Paul folloving P4. Photo Andy Ross
[Hide Photo] Paul folloving P4. Photo Andy Ross
Top out  pics.Andy and Shingo arrive on the summit .. Another route on The Sandstone Alps.
[Hide Photo] Top out pics.Andy and Shingo arrive on the summit .. Another route on The Sandstone Alps.
Shingo belaying Andy on P4
[Hide Photo] Shingo belaying Andy on P4
The summit of its "Only Rock and Roll" from camp at Two Fingers Canyon
[Hide Photo] The summit of its "Only Rock and Roll" from camp at Two Fingers Canyon
Andy following P1
[Hide Photo] Andy following P1
Paul on P2
[Hide Photo] Paul on P2
Nearing top of P1
[Hide Photo] Nearing top of P1
Tele photo on the 5.9 section. P1
[Hide Photo] Tele photo on the 5.9 section. P1