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St. Pauli Girl

5.10-, Trad, 40 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: Yoav Altman, Ilona Barash, Ian Hey
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Optimator
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts the same as Charlie's Pillar but instead of continuing up along the flake to climbers left, chimney the other way out towards Neat, then ascend the wide crack that forms the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchor station. The route is better than it looks, and requires a variety of wide techniques in a short climb. Protection is good with off-the-shelf pro.

Location

Just left of Neat, start as for Charlie's Pillar but take the wide crack on the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchors.

Protection

This is one of those rare IC climbs where a rack of singles will suffice. I used singles from #0.4 to #6 BD C4 with a runner or two to extend a couple of cams. Bolted rap station on the other side of the final pinnacle.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack in this corner with protection in the flake, then in the offwidth after moving towards the outside.
[Hide Photo] St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack in this corner with protection in the flake, then in the offwidth after moving towards the outside.
Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl
[Hide Photo] Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Galhardo
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This route (chimney, then coming to outside) is super dirty with lots of debris in the crack near the top that will fall if disturbed . Don't run a top rope and probably best to not have a second follow. Also, belayer is better off deep inside cave. Wear a helmet too!
We climbed yesterday, tons of sand came down when rope disturbed it, then a rock about 1/4lb hit my partner smack on her helmet.
Also, anchor is two pounded in pitons. You can back it up with a #5, possibly sling a rock.
Be aware! I'm staying away. Apr 17, 2017