Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,040 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jason Young on Mar 27, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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The hardest friction slab I've ever done! The crux involves some "palm stemming". My brother blew his shoulder out on this one.


To the left of Terrebonne Jacks.


Cams for the bottom and bolts to a 2BA.


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  5.12d PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.12d PG13
FA: Bill Boyle

This route presents some of the most technically engaging and improbable climbing i've encountered at The City of Rocks. You can't really call it a slab... Its a shallow stemming-trough that demands three dimentional friction and the funkiness of a dirty dog. This route requires at least a couple of cams to keep the tricky start safe. And even with the gear, I would consider the start a bit dangerous. Also, the bolts above are well spaced and the clipping stances are very delicate- big potential to blow a clip and take a risky fall. Really hard to grade this...I'm sure I've climbed granite stemming corners rated 12d that were easier! The crux is at the 3rd bolt, while moving left to enter the start of the "tunnel". Its the perfect definition of hyper technical funk. The tunnel above is taxing, sustained and delicate.
Climb it and if you get it, like Bingham says: "You will be so Psyched." Also, its actually left of Terrebone Jacks. Jun 25, 2012
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
Thanks bheller. I fixed the description (I'm a bit dyslexic). I was just back there a couple of days ago and got to stare up at this rig in awe again! I'm glad to see that others feel the same about it. By the way, I took about a 25' fall on it once and it was actually very clean since it is so steep for a slab. Jul 4, 2012