Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Harkonnen Castle

Grumpies T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Derek Wolfe, Jamie Princo
Page Views: 1,985 total · 27/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Mar 26, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Park at the first or second pullout west of the Garden of Garden of Eden parking area. Hike on slickrock and small washes to a slab with two bolts at the top. This slab is located west of the saddle between the Ham and the summit.

Climb the slab to the two bolts, 20 feet of 5.3. Once at the top, traverse on a grassy ledge east to a easy class 3 crack which takes you to a short class 4 slickrock ramp 100 yards east of the saddle. At the top of the class 4 slickrock ramp, walk on a slickrock ledge west to a crack just below the saddle.

Pitch 1. 15 feet.
From the crack just below the saddle, climb up narrow body crack to the saddle, 5.8+. This is the crux.

Pitch 2. 160 feet.
Belay from the saddle and climb up a slickrock ridge, 5.0-3rd class to a 5.4 crack on the north side of the ridge. At the top of the 5.4 crack, regain the ridge proper to a headwall. Belay from the headwall.

Pitch 3. 90 feet.
From the top of the headwall, move south to a ledge with a large boulder. Belay from the Boulder, and climb up a very sandy unprotected crack, 5.8, to a slickrock ledge. From the ledge, climb the prominent chimney to a large block at the top, 5.6. At the top of pitch 3, it is a short class 3 scramble to the summit.

Double 60 M rope rappel to the north from the boulder at the top of pitch 3. Watch the pull as there is a crack that would love to eat a knotted rope. Pull hard left.

The top of the rappel deposits you on the top of class 4 slab.


The route is located just west of the Garden of Eden Parking area.


Set of cams and nuts. A BD #1 cam protects the 5.8+ crux.

Rappel north from a webbing anchor at the top of pitch 3.
It has been brought to my attention, and I would like to clarify, I did NOT place the two bolts located on top of the 20 foot 5.3 slab. I am not sure when those were placed or who placed them.

As for the placement of those two bolts, I am not entirely sure why they were placed considering that the slab can be down-climbed or rappelled via a bush. Jun 7, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
check for closures. we started up the slab before we were told it was closed. (whoops, my bad). we did the slab sans rope but it felt like 5.6 . happy the bolts were there. i could down climb it but wouldn't want to. it may reopen before the posted aug. date. May 19, 2014
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
We did this route and found some differences with the description. I would say that the crack mentioned on the first pitch is certainly more difficult than 5.8+ though it is easily dispatched with a shoulder stand from from a willing partner. Also, in my opinion, the crack on the second pitch is more 5.5 ish than 5.4. Additionally, I would rate the crack on the third pitch harder than 5.8; especially with gear plugging up the crack for the leader. The last pitch is in all likelihood easier than 5.6 though with all the loose rock it may seem harder. Overall, I really enjoyed this route as it winds it's way to a pretty cool summit. One note of caution: we rappelled down climbers right from the rappel station so as to keep the ropes out of the rope eating crack, but in doing so we created too much friction and had a dickens of a time pulling our ropes down. It may be better to take your chances with rappelling with your ropes going climbers left. Nov 24, 2017

More About Grumpies

Printer-Friendly Guide