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Rice Krispies

5.10b, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 25 votes
FA: Jon Nelson, Mark McKillup, sometime in the 1980s
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Lookout Point
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

The flake just R or Strange Boar, sharing the same start. Listed in Sky Valley Rock and in the old Clint Cummins guide. Re-cleaned and top anchor replaced Feb/Mar 2012. Rated 10b in most guides, but the hollowness of the flake just below the anchors will give many leaders pause. Tread lightly as you pull the final roof, or bypass this with a couple delicate moves up chickenheads to the left.

Variation (Pork Fried Rice): 10c *** Continue past the anchors to join Strange Boar after its crux. An exciting and varied pitch.

Location

Shares a starting belay with Strange Boar. See Baby Tapir for overview photo.

Protection

Light rack to 3", including thin cams for the start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rice Krispees.
[Hide Photo] Rice Krispees.
Rice Krispies
[Hide Photo] Rice Krispies
Rice Krispies
[Hide Photo] Rice Krispies
Eric Hirst at the top of Rice krispies (5.10c), making a 5.10 traverse move into An act of strange boar (The Pork Fried Rice continuation). One can lower off from the anchors before doing this traverse.
[Hide Photo] Eric Hirst at the top of Rice krispies (5.10c), making a 5.10 traverse move into An act of strange boar (The Pork Fried Rice continuation). One can lower off from the anchors before doing this trav…
Eric Hirst further up on Rice krispies (5.10c).
[Hide Photo] Eric Hirst further up on Rice krispies (5.10c).
Eric Hirst at the start of Rice Krispies (5.10c).
[Hide Photo] Eric Hirst at the start of Rice Krispies (5.10c).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Nice laybacking up a thin crack that widens to hands at the top.
It's short, but as it doesn't have any good rests (except a little stemming at the bottom), it will work your arms and fingers.

Also, the rock is really rough, so you might want to tape up your hands. Mar 26, 2012
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I am not particularly strong and I think it is 10b, however i am tall so maybe it's hieght dependent.
great route Mar 15, 2015
Eric Hirst
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I think you're right, Geoff. I dropped it down a notch. Mar 21, 2015
[Hide Comment] The flake didn't feel too hollow to me. I avoided the downward pointing trianglular tip (it definitely sounded hollow), but the rest seemed solid. Jul 16, 2015
[Hide Comment] With permission from the FA, 2 bolts have been added next to the unprotectable guillotine flake. Sep 30, 2016