Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jon Nelson, Mark McKillup, sometime in the 1980s
Page Views: 1,596 total · 18/month
Shared By: Eric Hirst on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

The flake just R or Strange Boar, sharing the same start. Listed in Sky Valley Rock and in the old Clint Cummins guide. Re-cleaned and top anchor replaced Feb/Mar 2012. Rated 10b in most guides, but the hollowness of the flake just below the anchors will give many leaders pause. Tread lightly as you pull the final roof, or bypass this with a couple delicate moves up chickenheads to the left.

Variation (Pork Fried Rice): 10c *** Continue past the anchors to join Strange Boar after its crux. An exciting and varied pitch.

Location

Shares a starting belay with Strange Boar. See Baby Tapir for overview photo.

Protection

Light rack to 3", including thin cams for the start.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
Nice laybacking up a thin crack that widens to hands at the top.
It's short, but as it doesn't have any good rests (except a little stemming at the bottom), it will work your arms and fingers.

Also, the rock is really rough, so you might want to tape up your hands. Mar 26, 2012
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
I am not particularly strong and I think it is 10b, however i am tall so maybe it's hieght dependent.
great route Mar 15, 2015
Eric Hirst
  5.10b
Eric Hirst  
  5.10b
I think you're right, Geoff. I dropped it down a notch. Mar 21, 2015
The flake didn't feel too hollow to me. I avoided the downward pointing trianglular tip (it definitely sounded hollow), but the rest seemed solid. Jul 16, 2015
With permission from the FA, 2 bolts have been added next to the unprotectable guillotine flake. Sep 30, 2016