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Routes in Lookout Point

A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Hatch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
A Ship Called Black Rock T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
An Act of Strange Boar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
And Say T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baby Tapir T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Below Lissen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bobcat Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bowling to Biscuits T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
House of the 7th Bobcat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Law and Order T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanuts To Serve You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Kool-Aid T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rice Krispies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solitude T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Steel Pulse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is Index Not L.A. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Velvet Pedestal, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You can cool Jack Robinson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jon Nelson (with Derek Pearson and Eric Hirst) 2/12/2012
Page Views: 3,465 total, 50/month
Shared By: Eric Hirst on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

[The full name of this route is actually "An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch."]

Strange Boar is the spectacular dihedral just R of Baby Tapir and just L of Rice Krispies. It's reminiscent of Slow Children, but thinner and more sustained.

If you have pudgy fingers, you may find this route to be a lot harder than 11a. Daintier folks, however, may think it's only 5.10. Either way, climb it. It's a pretty dang classic line.

Location

See Baby Tapir overview photo. Start at a comfortable ledge (2 bolts) a short distance above the trail.

Protection

Pro to 1". Mostly thin cams and small/medium stoppers. A single 60m rope will get you down.

Photos

Douglas T
  5.11a
Douglas T  
  5.11a
Those with really small fingers will giggle as their fatter fingered partners struggle through the crux. A short but difficult crux leads to lots of fun movement. Great pro throughout the entire climb. Sep 18, 2016
derekpearson Pearson  
  5.11a
I can't remember if I removed the hangers or not but I placed it there because the gang and me thought it was a good spot to start from. Its not needed though. I think I drilled the holes deep enough to push the bolts in and hide them or cover the holes. Aug 9, 2016
Zacks  
cool climb, struggle bussed and took through the crux, but my fingers are kinda thick. There appears to have been a belay anchor that had hangers removed dunno what that's about, but there where to bolts sticking out with the washers still on the bolts but no nuts or hangers. We still made the Frenchwomen anchors off a 70 from the ground so you don't' really need a belay anchor. You'll want a couple pieces in the .2 to red c3 range for the crux, .3 x4s would fit in your only finger holds lol. Used a .75 in the easy section right before the start than nothing bigger than .5 for the rest of it for me (all BD sizes) Aug 6, 2016
Aaron O
Seattle, WA
 
Aaron O   Seattle, WA
 
Awesome climb. It protects very well the whole way to the top and is thoroughly enjoyable all of the way to the chains! Jun 28, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Great line. I climbed it when the crack was wet, but it still climbed well. The move getting into the corner is tricky, but overall I didn't think it was as sustained as Slow Children. Mar 12, 2015
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.11a
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.11a
Felt a tad harder than Slow Children at the start. Definitely link this with A Group Of Mysterious French Women as one pitch. Bring 1-2 hand size cams and save some medium nuts for the top. Sep 15, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Hi Chris,
I was hoping to add a bolt to the start of the traverse crack, cleaning off an easier start, and giving it a try again, maybe later this week.

Last time, I had the same experience as you. Fantastic finishing moves. Glad you like it. But no, I haven't heard of anyone else trying it. Jul 22, 2014
Has anyone redpointed the last pitch? I tried it today and found it quite good - I even think it may have been my favorite pitch on the route! I had some trouble and fell a couple times through the traverse, but I'm thinking around Index 12a... Anyone? Jul 21, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Geoff, do you mean the flake on Rice Krispies?

I don't think it is off. Sounds like an impressive way to go. Feb 11, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
Is it cheating if I bear hug all the way over to the flake, worked for me. Feb 11, 2014
michal
Everett WA
  5.10
michal   Everett WA
  5.10
Perfect climbing link with next pitch for a rope stretching masterpiece Apr 24, 2012
MorganH
  5.11a PG13
MorganH  
  5.11a PG13
Super fun line! Apr 16, 2012
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
My calf muscles started to blow out before my arms, but the arms also almost blew out at the hand pod near the top. It's not very long, but good luck finding good rests. It has a nice ledge at the top to sit down and belay your second.

If you can do this line, you ought to be able to cruise Slow Children. Mar 26, 2012