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Routes in West Face/ Southwest Arete

Born of Water T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cloud Man Got Angry T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forbes Route (East Approach) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Forbes Route (West Approach) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I'itoi Dance T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watcher of the Skies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Neil Gehrels 1996
Page Views: 731 total, 11/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking Details

Description

This is a wandering line up the middle of the SW face that has some good face climbing. I thought it worth doing once, but my partner liked it a little better. Easier than the routes to the right as a means of getting up this large face, but still pretty sustained at 5.8. Maybe a route to do if you like climbing Babo but are running out of doable routes.

Kerry's description is good, but someone has apparently retrobolted a few spots of the route--most notably the second pitch where there is a large area where a 40' by 30' section of rock appears to have calved off. This scar is tightly bolted over now, so even though the rock is very crumbly here, it should be safe.

Location

Starts left of I'itoi Dance at the next protruding buttress. There is another buttress and corner further left that also seem to match Kerry's description. If you look hard you can spot the bolt near the top of P1 on the correct buttress.

Protection

Fairly light standard rack as the route sports a couple dozen bolts.

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