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Routes in RoadSide Wall

Decode V3+ 6A+
Dell's Lemonade V0+ 4+
Firecracker Crimps V5 6C PG13
Heaven (Roadside Direct) V5+ 6C+ PG13
Mad Max V0 4 PG13
Roadside Warmup V1 5
Spectacle V7 7A+ PG13
Topless Carwash V0+ 4+
Tricycle (Roadside Traverse Right) V3 6A PG13
Voyagers V1 5
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Unknown, likely 1980s
Page Views: 302 total, 4/month
Shared By: Christopher J Simpson on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


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Description

(Update 5/17/15 - The left hand crux gaston crumbled off, so the line will likely be harder.)

Fun pulling on painful crimps. With great feet through the difficult moves, it's really a hand-beta challenge. Find the answer that makes the most sense for you!

Start on low jugs just right of tree stump, pull up through painful crimps to crux triangular flake above head-height. Gaston up left and finish on jug above the big horizontal shelf, or continue through to top.

Location

On the tall smoother part of the left side of the wall, look for a line of crimps just right of a stump, that lead up to the left end of the prominent, left leaning slopey shelf.

Protection

Single pad.
(Or a whole squad of spotters for the 25-foot topout.)

Photos

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JamieRe
Providence, RI
  V5
JamieRe   Providence, RI
  V5
Sweet! DYNOS! Nov 24, 2015
No, Mark! That's a shame. I'll be out there in the next few weeks and I'll let you know! Nov 19, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Anybody been able to repeat this since the break? Jul 22, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Unfortunately the high left gaston of the crux section broke off on me today. I got it ("Oh that's not bad"), got my feet up and was going for the shelf and then it crumbled and I was tumbling down the hill. It is going to likely be quite a bit harder, probably requiring a backstep dyno from the triangular hold below May 17, 2015
JamieRe
Providence, RI
  V5
JamieRe   Providence, RI
  V5
This climb is awesome and the topout wasn't bad at all. Just tall. Sep 11, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I wonder if something broke in the last few years, making a better hold, because I remember it being quite a bit more desperate before. We'll have to see if Whitey remembers. He certainly would have been able to do a tweaky V5 or 6 back then. He said he will try to make up some topos of this and the main crag for us. Did any of you guys top out yet? : )) Mar 28, 2012
I would agree that it seems too obvious to be new. Joe, give it a rating and we'll see where the consensus falls. I was thinking it was harder 'til the quick send, so I wouldn't rule it out... Mar 28, 2012
Joe M.    
Seems too obvious to be new. I thought it was a touch harder than V5, though I wasn't killing it the day I tried it... Mar 27, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I don't remember that this was done bitd, so it may be a new route. Mar 26, 2012