PRINT: Rock Climb Warm Up Route, Northeast Ridges and Valleys

Warm Up Route

5.6, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1.6 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
Pennsylvania > Northeast Ridge… > Mocanaqua (aka… > Library > Main Block, Back Side

Access Issue: Paradise, Library, and Hawk Rock closed to climbing Details

During the recent public OHV study meetings linked below, The Earth Conservancy has made it clear that they do not allow rock climbing on their land. The Library, Paradise, and Hawk Rock all fall within Earth Conservancy Land, and are therefore closed to climbing. The Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of climbers is currently working with the Access Fund, Earth Conservancy, and DCNR to reopen these areas to climbing. Please be respectful of this closure and utilize the other crags around Mocanaqua to avoid further jeopardizing our future access of these beloved crags.

earthconservancy.org/recrea…

Description

Climb the face past 3 bolts at the right end of the wall. The start is about 10' to the right of the Cornflake Crack.

Location

Ten feet to the right of the Cornflake Crack on the inside wall of the Library.

Protection

Three bolts

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Warm Up Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

kenr

5.7+

Location is on the backside wall (west face) of the main detached block, which is the east wall of the corridor behind that block. Almost at the right / north end of that wall (by the widest easiest entrance to the corridor). May 24, 2014

kenr

5.7+

This route is not a "warmup" (except for 5.11 climbers), and it's not 5.6.

Several tricky moves, with at least one critical move relying on a small or non-positive fingerholds.

Work out very carefully the belay / protection methods required to avoid hitting a ledge or bulge if blow one of the moves in the lower half - (? bring a stick-clip ?)
. (I am not suggesting that the bolts are badly placed -- I think the problem is just the structure of the rock). Aug 24, 2014

jim kaminski
Manchester, CT

5.5

Fun route. I thought all the hand holds felt pretty solid. Oct 17, 2017

Brandon Brown

Great warm up for a cold day! Super fun route with great holds. If you don't like scary first moves you could bring a stick clip, but commitment is a big part of sport climbing! Do watch your belay position though. Climbs 5.5 but could be 5.6 if you began with a sit start like we did today. Nov 4, 2017

Jon Best
Montrose, PA

5.7+

Agree with Kenr, This is not a 5.6, closer to 5.7+
Good warm up though Apr 16, 2018

brian kish
Boise, ID

5.7+

Yup, I found this one to be more challenging than a 5.6, too. 5.7+ seems fair. The crux is at the 2nd bolt. Aug 24, 2020