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Routes in Central Battleship Formation

C-5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honeyshine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poop Deck T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Red, Yellow, Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S Church Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2-3
Sugar Briches T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trim Your Bush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 711 total, 10/month
Shared By: Mitchell Allen on Mar 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Right-facing dihedral taking #2-3.5 camalots. Start with wide hands for about 12 ft of easy climbing to a steeper section. Crack narrows to solid handjams through steepest part to a ledge. From the ledge work into a tight chimney placing marginal, thin gear to top. We built a belay using small nuts and cams in the chimney, then squeezed through to the top out.

Edit: Two glue-in bolt anchors have been added at the top of this route. There is considerable rope drag when top roping. I would suggest rappelling off of the climb to limit rope drag.

Location

Once on top of the long slab, keep heading north looking for a huge detached, chossy pillar. The perfect dihedral is a little ways to the left of the detached pillar. It's directly right of some wandering 5.6ish face cracks about 60 yards to the south of the northernmost extent of the formation.

Protection

Dihedral crack takes #2-3 camalots, cracks in chimney take nuts or small cams. Didn't seem to be many good bushes or cracks to belay from very top. Route could be more fun with a simple bolt anchor.

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