PRINT: Rock Climb Steve Martin's Face, The New River Gorge Region

Steve Martin's Face

5.11c, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 22 votes
FA: Andrew Barry, Mike Artz, Rick Fairtrace 1985
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This is an essential rite of passage for anyone looking to become an NRG face trad expert. Start with a weird move off the ground right of Chorus Line, and head towards a shallow dihedral. Most of it is gear protected, mostly TCUs and small stoppers, but the crux is protected by a bolt.

Location

Around the corner from the Burning Calves area, this is the prominent face left of Rod Serling Crack.

Protection

Gear is all there, albeit intricate. 1 bolt. Bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steve Martin's Face climbs the orange face left of the gray streak.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chummer

Offset TCU's are helpful. 11c seemed stout to me but I'm also old and weak. Apr 16, 2019

Mark Paulson
Raleigh, NC

A blue/yellow Metolius offset would ostensibly help the 15' before the bolt feel much less insane. I didn't have one, and had plenty of time to question fundamental life decisions while trying in vain to stuff a yellow tcu in an unyielding flare. Thought this felt harder than Chorus Line.. Jun 4, 2019

Calf-lete Osborne
Huntsville, AL

Someone wrote in a tick that they broke a hold after the bolt recently. Saw obvious fresh rock scar after right traverse at bolt. Felt closer to a 12- than mid 11. Nov 8, 2020

Jean-Christophe Fillion-Robin

Horn jug after bolt is now broken. Nov 10, 2020

Mike Rowley
Traveling

This thing is nails. Pretty solid gear placements make it safe, but imo the climbing is a good bit harder than 11c.... like... at least 12a. That said tho, it climbs amazingly, just dont be expecting 11c. Nov 30, 2020

Pnelson

Y'all, compare this line to any other 5.11 face trad/mixed route at the NRG and you'll see it's not sandbagged at all, but totally solid at the grade. It's a bit harder than Arms Control (11b), easier than Back with My Kind or Beast in Me (11+), and quite a bit easier than 12a's like LSD or The Rabbit Almost Died. You just can't compare it to similarly graded cracks or even sport lines. Nov 30, 2020