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Routes in Roadside Formation (Red Fleet State Park Area)

Cave of Dreams TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Caveman Traverse V0 4
Halfway Arch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Highside Left V2 5+
Layback and Relax T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middleschmertz V1+ 5
Paleo Diet V1 5
Spider Wall No. 1 V1 5
Tickle My Allosaurus V3 6A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Not Yet Sent
Page Views: 362 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mitchell Allen on Mar 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This arched roof looks really sweet and the crux looks pretty tough. The start follows a low angle ramp and corner up to an almost vertical/slightly overhung offwidth section, then a layback crack in the roof traverses left about 30 ft. After that you can move around the roof and follow another short crack/scramble to the top of the formation. For rope drag reasons I would belay at the end of the traverse, then make the short climb to the top. I've made it part-ways through the roof traverse but never completed the climb.

  • *This route isn't actually named and I have no idea how accurate the rating is. If anyone has info feel free to email me and I will update this! Thanks


About 50 yards left of Layback and Relax.


Handsize or smaller gear on the ramp, #3.5 camalot or bigger for the crux, then handsize pieces in the roof for the traverse over.