Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Roadside Formation (Red Fleet State Park Area)

Cave of Dreams TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Caveman Traverse V0 4
Halfway Arch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Highside Left V2 5+
Layback and Relax T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middleschmertz V1+ 5
Paleo Diet V1 5
Spider Wall No. 1 V1 5
Tickle My Allosaurus V3 6A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mitchell Allen, Evan Anderson
Page Views: 471 total, 7/month
Shared By: Mitchell Allen on Mar 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Layback and mantle through an odd 5.8 start (the only move on the route above 5.5-5.6) to gain lower angled terrain. Follow the thin crack/flake for 10 ft to a straight-in hand crack angling up and left. Follow this 5.5 crack up through the slot to belay. Walk off to the south towards Brush Creek.

Location

This route is the obvious low-angle ramp with a crack in it as seen from the road.

Protection

Bottom belay stance is on steep and soft clay, protect belayer with #3-4 camalots. Upper belay takes #1-3.5 camalots or larger nuts/hexes. For route: a few smaller nuts and a few handsize or smaller cams.
Mitchell Allen
Little Rock, Arkansas
 
Mitchell Allen   Little Rock, Arkansas
 
Hey Steve,

I had a few friends that also started way right on the slabby stuff. I think it knocks this down to about a 5.5 all the way around. The mantle I described was basically laying back on the bottom crack, getting high feet on the wall underneath the crack, and then working up that lieback until you can get a right foot out on top of the slab and reach higher into the thin crack. Hope this helps!

Mitch Oct 9, 2014
I've been in Vernal for work all summer and been looking for some decent rock. Fun, easy route, set it up with a friend yesterday, just walked up the back and made a really poor top rope anchor with a few slings over the right rock from the top-out and a backup hooked up to some sagebrush behind it (not recommended). The chinle is dirty, but fun to climb on. The start's a bit bouldery, but the rest is just a walk in the park. I started way right of the crack and traversed over, didn't understand the mantle as provided in the description. Jul 25, 2014