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Routes in Main Wall

Beginner's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginner's Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beginners Top-Rope Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bullseye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Wave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guido TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Iodine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
No Name Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pizza T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Razor Blade T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
ZigZag Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: (probably A. Pisanechi, B. D'Antonio, and/or G. Peterson, 1980s?)
Page Views: 191 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chadd Sechler on Mar 20, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the bolted line to the left of the Pizza Crack. At the second bolt move right to a bulge and follow two more bolts to the top.

The anchors of Pizza Crack to the right can be borrowed.

Location

About 10' left of the Pizza Crack.

Protection

4 Bolts, trad pro to hand width.

Photos

The bolting definitely makes no sense (first bolt about 15' and the second 2' from the first??). I lead it today, just clipping bolts and found a very high potential for large falls/ hitting the deck. The 4th bolt (crux) is rusted and loose. Not really sure where you would protect this climb with well placed gear though. Typical PA "sport" climb... Nov 4, 2017
karl kvashay
cedar city, utah
karl kvashay   cedar city, utah
We always veered slightly left after the bolts, going up a steep crack and topping out at the highest point of the wall (cool mantle!) This adds another 20-25 feet or so of 5.8 (max) climbing and is a much better finish IMHO. Great route and pretty tricky and slick in spots. Jun 25, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Thanks Jonathon, I edited the route description with your notes. Feb 28, 2013
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
While four bolts are used for protection, this doesn't really qualify as a sport route. I can't imagine that this was rap bolted either. Some hand sized gear can be used to protect the final moves. I think a rack of nuts may also be useful. The anchors are to the right of the climb, not the left as is stated in the description. Feb 28, 2013