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Routes in Saddle Rock Area

Rock on the Coast T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Chuck Fitch & Steve Tucker, 1980
Page Views: 623 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 20, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A striking parallel crack line splitting a 30-degree overhanging wall. Starts out with a few ringlock/lieback moves, then some tight hands and hands, a kneebar rest in the broken out section, and finally crank over the lip with some big cupped hands. 10 feet of easy 5th class leads to the top. Numerous features for feet help keep the difficulties down.

An obscure classic; one of the best crack climbs in SB.

Location

This splitter crack is on a steep south-facing wall 100 feet north of Saddle Rock proper. The line can be spotted from the trail. Starts on a small ledge halfway up the formation just left of the crack. Scramble up to the base or rap in from the top.

Protection

Cams from 0.75 to 3 camalot. A massive oak tree anchor exists at the top, set back about 15 feet. Bring plenty of cord/webbing to set a TR anchor.

The rock is very coarse here, tape is highly advised.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.10
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.10
A quality trad line and well worth the hike.
It makes up for its short length with steep jams and good pro. Not to mention the outstanding setting and ocean view.
FA cred goes to Chuck Fitch and Steve Tucker, April 1980. Feb 20, 2016
Mike Stearns
  5.10
Mike Stearns  
  5.10
Fun climbing, good jams, and a better view make this worth the walk. Should clean up with more ascents.

South east aspect above the trees makes it (much) warmer than San Ysidro, just so you know. Mar 23, 2012
In my opinion, this line is as good as The Nose or Pseudomania in the Gibraltar area, and might offer more straight-in and strenuous jamming than those routes, even for it's short stature. I'll have to double-check the book to confirm the FA info.

On our recent ascent, an extremely loose 200lb "death block" was cleaned from the top of the overhanging crack. Imagine a freehanging, oversized pumpkin supported only by it's stem! With this objective hazard removed, more clean jamming was exposed, and the quality of the line increased from 1 to 3 stars. Please go climb this, you will not be disappointed. Mar 20, 2012