All Locations > California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Hot Springs Canyon > Saddle Rock Area

Rock on the Coast

Name: Rock on the Coast
Rating: 2.5

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Saddle Rock Area

Rock on the Coast T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m)
GPS:	34.4546, -119.6368
FA:	Chuck Fitch & Steve Tucker, 1980
Page Views:	1,603 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Richard Shore on Mar 20, 2012
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A striking parallel crack line splitting a 30-degree overhanging wall. Starts out with a few ringlock/lieback moves, then some tight hands and hands, a kneebar rest in the broken out section, and finally crank over the lip with some big cupped hands. 10 feet of easy 5th class leads to the top. Numerous features for feet help keep the difficulties down.

An obscure classic; one of the best crack climbs in SB.

Location

This splitter crack is on a steep south-facing wall 100 feet north of Saddle Rock proper. The line can be spotted from the trail. Starts on a small ledge halfway up the formation just left of the crack. Scramble up to the base or rap in from the top.

Protection

Cams from 0.75 to 3 camalot. A massive oak tree anchor exists at the top, set back about 15 feet. Bring plenty of cord/webbing to set a TR anchor.

The rock is very coarse here, tape is highly advised.