Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: Chuck Fitch & Steve Tucker, 1980
Page Views: 1,116 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 20, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

A striking parallel crack line splitting a 30-degree overhanging wall. Starts out with a few ringlock/lieback moves, then some tight hands and hands, a kneebar rest in the broken out section, and finally crank over the lip with some big cupped hands. 10 feet of easy 5th class leads to the top. Numerous features for feet help keep the difficulties down.

An obscure classic; one of the best crack climbs in SB.

Location

This splitter crack is on a steep south-facing wall 100 feet north of Saddle Rock proper. The line can be spotted from the trail. Starts on a small ledge halfway up the formation just left of the crack. Scramble up to the base or rap in from the top.

Protection

Cams from 0.75 to 3 camalot. A massive oak tree anchor exists at the top, set back about 15 feet. Bring plenty of cord/webbing to set a TR anchor.

The rock is very coarse here, tape is highly advised.

Photos