Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 344 total · 4/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Mar 19, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Did not climb, but documenting because this is not in the Bloom guidebook. I just put 5.10 because it seemed like a good starting point and it did not look too hard - but I did not climb it that day.

Looks like chimney to left facing corner. Looks hands, maybe wide hands. Anchor on left wall where corner begins to open up to a wider angle (see photo).

Location

This route is located just right and uphill of Deal With It (long splitter with bolt at start). It is not listed in the guidebook. See the photo for more detail, but the route looks wide at the start and then appears to be a beautiful hand-sized crack to an anchor on left wall.

Protection

Unknown. Looks like like a lot of hands with possibly a little variance.

Photos

On top of the pillar there is an engraving that calls this route a 5.11 and gives a name (which I've already forgotten... starts with a T? maybe a P? it's short, like 5 letters...)

Starts with easy offwidth to get into a tight squeeze in the first 10 feet. Below the pod it's greens and reds. Above the pod it's purples. Think I placed a #3 and a #2 somewhere. The dubious part is the anchor: a single drilled angle and a nut behind a hollow, crumbling flake. Definitely needs to be updated. Take a #5 or #6 if you want to back up the anchor.

Climbing felt like a 10 and the route is fun and clean.

70m rope just barely gets you to the top of the pillar which has a dicey down climb. Oct 31, 2016
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
If ye didnt climb it, sack up and do it or DONT PUT IT ON the proj! Nov 19, 2018