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Routes in Selfish Wall

(Unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Little More Masochism T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apathy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breakfast Social T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bromance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dilated Cervix T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Duo, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ego T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gnar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Roses T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hand Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heretic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I&I T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Id T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infidel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lean and Green T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
MMM (Misanthropic Mustache Man) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Black Dog T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ooze, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pack Rat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Selfishness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solo East T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solo West T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Suffering, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tag Team T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Takers, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundle Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turd Blossom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turdus Interuptus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 337 total · 5/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Mar 17, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb thin hands in a shallow right facing corner.
Traverse right briefly on crimps in a horizontal crack (with gear).
Climb a multi-crack system through varied sizes to a ledge.
Ascend a couple ledges to anchors potentially saving a 0.4" piece for the last moves.

Location

A minute left of Hand Solo and just a bit left of the Duo. Around the corner and left of "Mine."

Start marked by shallow right facing thin hands crack to horizontal traverse right to gain another crack.

Less than 60m to ground.

Apparently a route called the Gnash(?) is located just left, and climbs a wide crack to the same anchors.

Protection

Singles: 0.4", 0.5", 0.75", 3"
Doubles: 1" to 2.5"

Photos

justino  
I think this was another Jay Smith FA Sep 14, 2017
J. Hickok  
 
@bphelps15: Some people are gonna get hurt no matter what. Calling this 10+ or 11 won't stop somebody from getting hurt, but placing good solid gear, leading at or a little above your level, and using your head as a climber WILL stop you from getting hurt.

Oh yeah, and don't screw up changing the anchors or let your belayer drop you... because that could happen on a 5.7. Feb 5, 2017
Ben Bauer
Sunnyvale, California
Ben Bauer   Sunnyvale, California
Calling this 5.10+ is going to get someone hurt. I climbed this today and there is nothing 5.10 about it Oct 31, 2016
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.11 PG13
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.11 PG13
Yes, this is the Unknown 5.11 in the Bloom IC guide. Very good hard climbing, thin off-sized crack much of the way. Done a lot of 10+s in the Creek; would have to go with the 5.11 rating on this one. Superb! Oct 29, 2016
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Is this the same route that is listed in Blooms new guide as an Unknown 5.11 (route 13)? Apr 20, 2016
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I did a super fun new and more direct start to this onsight. Start in the dihedral under the roof below the route. A few thin moves and you get a good stance where you can clip some solid gear (purple and blue tcus) before pulling the roof. I cleaned as much loose rock as I could on lead but there's probably a bit more. This variation clocks in around 11 or 11+. Overall very enjoyable route. Mar 24, 2013
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
really cool route with several diverse, interesting sections. Mar 18, 2012
Super fun, and you should do it! Mar 18, 2012