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The Brass Monkey
5.7,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 9
votes
FA: Greg Gavin and Tris Tarantino March 12th 2012
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Sail
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
"In the heyday of sailing ships, all war ships and many freighters carried iron cannons. Those cannons fired round iron cannon balls. It was necessary to keep a good supply near the cannon. However, how to prevent them from rolling about the deck? The best storage method devised was a square-based pyramid with one ball on top, resting on four resting on nine, which rested on sixteen. Thus, a supply of 30 cannon balls could be stacked in a small area right next to the cannon. There was only one problem...how to prevent the bottom layer from sliding or rolling from under the others. The solution was a metal plate called a "Monkey" with 16 round indentations.
However, if this plate were made of iron, the iron balls would quickly rust to it. The solution to the rusting problem was to make "Brass Monkeys." Few landlubbers realize that brass contracts much more and much faster than iron when chilled. Consequently, when the temperature dropped too far, the brass indentations would shrink so much that the iron cannonballs would come right off the monkey. Thus, it was quite literally, "Cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey."" - Albert Jack, "Red Herrings & White Elephants The Origins of the Phrases We Use Every Day" (New York: Harper Collins Publishers, 2004), page 12.
Start up the southeast corner of the buttress climbing great edges and patina past 2 bolts onto a stance. From this stance balance your way up the main face of the wall keeping your cool before clipping bolt 4. After bolt 4 the business hits as you step out right, and find a good crack that takes wires and cams. Be sure to take in the wonderful position in the canyon when you reach the anchors!
A good warm up or cool down if you're in the area. This route climbs the mottled face 100ft east of "Castaway". The crux seems to be at 3/4rd's height just past the last bolt.
Location
100ft east of "Castaway". Directly after the 3rd class used to gain the ledges east of The Sail.
Protection
4 bolts protect the face while wires and a rack to 1.5" supplement the rest. Rappel the route.
UT
Edit urbandictionary.com/define.… Mar 16, 2012
Orem, UT
Snopes on Brass Monkeys snopes.com/language/stories…
"Somebody's fanciful imagination is at work cooking up spurious etymologies again. In short, this origin for the phrase 'cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey' is nonsense because..." Mar 16, 2012
SLC, UT
Regardless the route is a fun romp up surprisingly good stone. It was drilled on lead with bolts 1,3,4 drilled from free stances and bolt 2 from a hook. Trying to keep the ground up tradition alive in little cottonwood.
Have fun! Mar 18, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
Anchors are not easily visible from the ground, just head up after the fourth bolt and make for the arete. Bring runners for the anchors if you plan on toproping, they're set back a bit. Jan 22, 2014
SLC, UT
SLC, UT