Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,110 total · 26/month
Shared By: Michael Bartosek on Mar 14, 2012
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

go up the center face up to the thin crack under the roof and up.

Location

To the right of Holy Crap

Protection

Bolts, Anchor Chains at top of route

Photos

Lance Ranzer  
 
Great Climb - tough finish
BETA-- The roof: balance on a wide stance, small hand crack - static layback to set the 1st CRUX clip. Huge hold on top of the roof (thank god)
2nd CRUX is the extended route. I think it's a 10C/D -- Does anyone know the rating for this extension?
Finger jam the crack (very slippery- over chalked), just take the no hands rest after you pull the roof before heading up to this part!! Jun 23, 2014
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10c
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.10c
Just as Chad Parker posted, there is no anchor at the top of this climb! I learned this the hard way. You must continue up a slippery crack that requires either gear or some far-off bolts that you can protect with (although it's awkward). The required crack finish was unexpected and made the climb feel much harder, especially after pulling the roof and thinking that you're done.
Although I haven't seen a fall on it yet, the bolt before the CRUX bolt (i.e., the bolt before the one that protects the roof) is dangerously low and would have been better placed a foot higher. Blowing the clip could easily result in decking on the big ledge up there. Be careful and get some good finger locks in that slipper crack. Aug 4, 2015
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
To Lance's comment it's a 5.10c/d above the roof to the anchors directly above Circus Midget. If you go to the anchor on the left (Flying Guillatine) 5.10b Aug 30, 2016
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
I've taken a fall on both those crux bolts on lead and both are a safe fall. The lower bolt looks too low but it's set away from the main wall on the corner so it makes for a safe fall if you miss the crux clip. This is the best route at Tick Rock in my opinion so don't miss this one. Feb 4, 2017