PRINT: Rock Climb Stay Hungry, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Stay Hungry

5.10d PG13, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff, 1980
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Hawk-Eagle Ridge

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Access Issue: Turkey Vulture nesting closure - now lifted Details

Per Dustin Bergman, State Parks Officer, ECSP (1/30/21): the Hawk Eagle closures are lifted!

Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.

As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.

Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.

Description

I consider this route quite high quality, it would be popular and reknown at any other crag in the park. Maybe not three of four stars on a global scale, but for H.E.R.'s scrappy lines seems worthy of 3?Approaching the top of H.E.R. - only 30m. from the car for a gimp - Stay Hungry is the obvious right-facing dihedral system just left of Ace of Spades and Inflorescence and 1st left of Self Abuse. The mid-level severely overhanging right-facing corner (2x as big as Self Abuse) is obvious. Climb intricate thin fingers to the 'sustained' roof crack and up the headwall to a "horn" on a left-facing corner slot crack, this cuts off nice climbing above but is about 75' off the deck. I consider this route similar in quality and difficulty to Sidewall on the West Ridge but more sustained and only Jalepeno spicy. Although Sidewall p2 is ultra-classic, overall S.H. feels similar yet a bit better protected in the first half.

Location

Stay Hungry is located near the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge. Locate the obvious, right-facing dihedral system just left of Inflorescence and 1st left of Self Abuse. The mid-level, severely overhanging, right-facing corner (2x as big as S.A.) is obvious.

Protection

Standard rack + doubles <1".

I should add that it's not trivial to get off this route. We left a sling/biner at the 'horn' and this makes a quick and easy exodus, but this cuts the climbing short and although it easily can (and should!) be backed up for top roping, it seems sub-optimal...time will tell, maybe up a little higher than I went a better "permanent anchor" can be made with nuts or the like....

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Annecone
Boulder, CO

Excellent route with lots of 5.10 climbing! A sustained and interesting finish too. Highly recommended. Mar 26, 2012