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Routes in Twin Valley North

87th Best V1 5
Aibohphobia V1 5
Cold Dinner Tonight V2+ 5+
Creeper, The V3 6A
Last Call V2+ 5+
Life on the Prairie V5 6C
Live Not on Evil V2 5+
Party Boobytrap V1 5
Prairie Dog V5-6 6C+
Pudding Tree Arete V0 4
So Many Dynamos! V2 5+
Training Weight V1 5
Type: Boulder, 16 ft
FA: Zach Mathe & Kurt Sensenbrenner
Page Views: 94 total, 1/month
Shared By: Zach Mathe on Mar 13, 2012
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Walk up ledge to stand start on arete left of 87th Best. Use large flat ledge to start. Climb up arete while making use of a jug on left, jugs & crimps on right, and jugs on arete itself. Towards the top you will most likely go out to the right more on crimps, then creep back in on the arete again. Watch out for a jug about half way up on the right that rocks back and forth, can be used, but it might get pulled out someday. The top out is also fairly dirty, but you can still grab the nub to pull yourself up. Climb down the pudding tree to get down off the boulder, but be careful, that thing might smush off the boulder very soon.

Location

Start from the furthest camp site on the northwest end of the twin valley campground (Site 222). Hike west along the ridgeline about 100yrds. When you see the creekbed hike down, cross the stream, and you should see a bunch of boulders strewn about in front of you.

Follow the cliff ridge right until it ends. Looking off in the distance in the direction you were walking (North-ish), and you will see another cliff band. Go over to it. Easiest way is to follow the horse trail for a bit, then cut through the forest to get there. If you find yourself trapped in thorns, look around, there are easier and clearer paths to get up there. You will see the large boulder there sitting in front of the cliff band.

Protection

Pads and spotter if you'd like. You are kind of screwed though if you fall. If you fall straight down off arete you will hit ledge and fall another 7 feet or so onto trees, rocks, and thorns. If you peel off the face toward the right somehow you might hit the ledge still and then topple onto the slanting hill. Don't fall.

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