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Routes in Space Wall

Alien Sex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side Of The Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kwijibo S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Made in Japan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonshadow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neanderthal Dudes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Purple Toupee S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sun Spots T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 309 total · 4/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Stellar right-facing corner, stemming and jamming. Of course, no one brings gear to a sport crag, but this one is worth it.

Location

Dihedral to the left of Moon Shadow.

Protection

Gear to 3", chain anchors.

Photos

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Pretty fun. It could clean up a little more, but I'm having a hard time thinking of another Donner 5.10- that is quite like it. It's basically an open book with awesome stemming on Tuolumne-like, knob studded rock, to an invigorating, albeit, slightly awkward, exit to the anchors.

It's pretty heavy on fingers to 1", I'd say. I don't remember placing anything larger. Aug 4, 2013
Ryan Pfleger
North Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Ryan Pfleger   North Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Lots of stemming, not much jamming, but maybe that's just my shitty technique. You could probably place a #2 or #3 in the horizontal right off the deck, but you might be better off doubling up on small gear in the .3 to .75 C4 range. The final moves are a bit funky. Aug 28, 2018

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