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Routes in School Rock

Breakfast Club, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eleventh Grade Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jim's Overhang T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Junior High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Karl's Overhang T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kindergarten Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mary's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Metal Shop T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Lunchables T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Senior Prom T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Subject S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Summer School TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teacher's Pet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
There is no God Crack Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
There is no God Crack Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wyatt Wall Left TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 766 total · 10/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Slightly obscure but excellent route that is one of the better 5.10 pitches on the Summit. Follow heads-up climbing to a bolt, make a cool traverse left, and finish on mostly-hands crack to top.

Bring some double-length runners and extend appropriate pieces, or suffer the rope drag consequences.

Location

Down and to the left of Senior Prom. Belayer may want to anchor in...a fall before the bolt could be nasty.

Protection

Gear to 3", 1 bolt, chain anchors.

Photos

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is one of the better 5.10b climbs at Donner, probably just behind Farewell to Arms and Firecracker.

A perfect belay ledge (set a couple of bomber pieces for the belayer in case the worst happens) leads to climbing that isn't necessarily scary but demands your head be screwed on from start to finish. The start high up on the wall gives this climb a sense of continuous exposure as well.

After the head's up start is a cool left rail traverse into demanding jamming between several different crack features that leads to a well-defined finger crack crux. It floats my boat, anyway. Nov 18, 2012

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