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Routes in Mee Canyon

Arch Tower: Dry Heaves T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2- PG13
Cigar Tower: You're Gonna Go Far T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2-
Colossus: Male Vitality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Crisis Actors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Drinking with Gambino T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday Night Monster Truck Rally T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Garston Trout, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1+
Garston Trout: Crusher's Sloppy Seconds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
Government Cheese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C1
Middle Children of History Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Moai Tower: Vanished Civilization T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
Model Citizen T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moon River T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2-
Nerve Endings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Man Tower: America's Best Chew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaking the Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tail Wagger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transcendent Function T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Unnamed V0 4
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,092 total · 14/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is another very obvious route on the same buttress as Moon River and Shaking the Goat.

Pitch #1. Climb the varnished, thin hands corner. It is fairly sustained and very good. Step left at a stance on a white scoop, and belay at 2 good bolts with rings, 80-85 feet, 5.10.

Pitch #2. Continue up the varnished corner. The crack gets a bit wider with more pure hands before getting wider at the top with a short section of chimney. Belay at a small ledge, with 2 good bolts (chains) out to the right, 95-100 feet, 5.10.

The route likely continues to at least the shoulder of the Buttress and possibly the summit.


Drinking with Gambino is located on the Buttress directly above the Mee Canyon campsite.


1X red Alien,3X #0.75-#1 Camalots, and 2X #2-#4 Camalots.


J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Ok, I've got some 'splain to do.

The FAs are listed as unknown. When we climbed the route, we thought we were doing an FA. Part way up the first pitch, we found a well placed (not stuck) cam with a locked, locking carabiner on it. This appeared to us to be a bail piece. We could not see this piece from below. When the leader got to the obvious belay, he did just that. With no anchors around, he put in 2 good bolts and lowered off. Another climber then went up and led the second pitch. At the top of that pitch, an anchor was discovered. This anchor was also not visible from below. That anchor consisted of a poor drilled angle and a fixed (and bent really weird) #10 Hex. This anchor was partially removed (the hex and slings) and replaced by 2 good bolts and chains.

So! If anyone has info about this route, please let me know! I'd love to hear more about it and give credit where it's due. Obviously, the route name will be changed once we know what the FAs called it. The part of this route we climbed was outstanding, and I assume there is more to it....


josh Mar 12, 2012

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