Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Louie Anderson 2005
Page Views: 301 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This longish route consists of blocky/edgy climbing up to a difficult crux boulder problem at the third or fourth bolt. Afterwards the climb enters a dihedral with a smooth whitish face on the left. Stemming is challenging here but often rewards the climber with a decent rest. Generally features on the right are used to gain upward progress. The second crux lies near the top of the dihedral where a reachy move to a sloping ramp will spit many off of the rock. From here it's another 5 or 10 easy feet to the anchors.

Location

This is the first line of bolts to the right of Fueled By Slander. It climbs a thin overlap and then enters a white dihedral above.

Protection

10 bolts to Rap Rings

Photos

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Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.12a
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.12a
I put this as 5.12a despite being rated 5.12b in the old guidebook. It's a compromise grade since I felt that the route was only 5.11d with the correct beta. Anyway, I couldn't justify posting it at 5.12b. It's a great route though, and my second favorite in the Slander Sector next to it's neighbor. Mar 12, 2012