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Routes in (g) Slander Sector

Aftershock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Washed Up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Babyface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Defamation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fueled by Slander S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mudslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shockwave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slander Magnet S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sweetie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Ho S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Louie Anderson 2005
Page Views: 248 total, 4/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This longish route consists of blocky/edgy climbing up to a difficult crux boulder problem at the third or fourth bolt. Afterwards the climb enters a dihedral with a smooth whitish face on the left. Stemming is challenging here but often rewards the climber with a decent rest. Generally features on the right are used to gain upward progress. The second crux lies near the top of the dihedral where a reachy move to a sloping ramp will spit many off of the rock. From here it's another 5 or 10 easy feet to the anchors.

Location

This is the first line of bolts to the right of Fueled By Slander. It climbs a thin overlap and then enters a white dihedral above.

Protection

10 bolts to Rap Rings

Photos

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Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
 
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
 
I put this as 5.12a despite being rated 5.12b in the old guidebook. It's a compromise grade since I felt that the route was only 5.11d with the correct beta. Anyway, I couldn't justify posting it at 5.12b. It's a great route though, and my second favorite in the Slander Sector next to it's neighbor. Mar 12, 2012