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Routes in Green Eggs and Ham

Grape Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pancakes and Cornflakes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Joseph Mayfield and Friends, March 2012
Page Views: 114 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris D on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Location

North face of Green Eggs and Ham. The route begins at the base of the seam that splits the center of the face. Set up your belay at the top from a natural arch, a large patina plate, and cam under the dike at the top of the route. Descend by downclimbing (5.5 or so) to (or rappelling from the patina plate to) the notch above Pancakes and Cornflakes and walking down the gravelly slope. Alternately, continue to the top of the formation and downclimb a water groove on the east face of the rock/

Description

Route follows the obvious seam up the middle of the face. Start by jamming the seam (good hands) and the pillar leaning against the wall. Or lieback the pillar. From the top of the pillar, it's two or three moves to the crux, a move off of smears and slopey edges to a one-hand undercling in a small pod. From the crux it's another 30 feet of 5.7 or so climbing on small holds to a change in the rock near the top where you can build your belay.

Protection

FA was protected with three nuts. Entire climb can be protected with gear up to 1 inch. Bring a #3 Camalot and a lot of slings, static line, or webbing to build an anchor at the top.
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Despite being thick with brightly colored lichen, this route had already cleaned up nicely after a dozen or so repeats. It will only get better with more traffic! Mar 12, 2012