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Routes in The "Found" Boulder

Type: Boulder
FA: Dana Seaton - stand, Mark Sprague - sit 3/15/2012
Page Views: 731 total, 10/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Mar 11, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The arete under the melding tree. Stand start-V5 with your left hand on the good edge and your right around the arete on the sharp crimp flake. Use your personal beta to move up the arete and top out just left of the tree. For the Sit Down - V7, start with your left hand on the same edge, right on the low crimp or make it even harder by starting with both hands on the low flake, and move into the stand. The very low sit start is maybe a grade harder.

Location

under the tree that is making love to the boulder.

Protection

pad

Photos

low sit went. nick says maybe +1. Oct 6, 2012
RyanCahill  
 
Did the stand same as Joe. Great problem from there. Low sit is quite fingery! Mar 19, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Thanks, Joe. I'll bump it up to 7 then. Mar 16, 2012
Joe M.    
I didn't tick anything on Monday but I did see a climber walking in when I was leaving. I think the sit is definitely 7, especially compared to the Escoheag Arete sit. Mar 16, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I got the sit today. It is hard for me to grade it. I use funky beta that taller people probably wont use. Taller people will probably just pop the left hand out to the lower hold on the left face like Dana did for the stand start, whereas I do different footwork that gets me higher. I shoot my right hand out to the sharp incut flake out right and pop my left up to the sidepull. With my right hand on the highest sidepull on the arete and left heel hooking the good starting handhold, right foot on the small crimp, I bring my right hand all the way up to the higher hold just left of the tree. I was thinking maybe V7 when I was working it, but it felt really easy when I finally got it. I'll call it a 6 for now, but am curious what the consensus will be. It did take me a bunch of tries.

Remember to give your chalk a brush before you leave folks, especially any big ticks. It was looking pretty chalk bombed when I got there. Mar 15, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Not yet. I am close. About 6-7 times I have had my hand on the hold just below the lip, but have barndoored off. I haven't seriously worked on the low sit yet as I have been trying to save my skin for the upper part. That's next though.

Re the right route, yeah, I did that. I don't have a name yet. The sit start is a sharp beastie. Any suggestion for a grade? Ultimately I would like to do it from the sit down of Treehugger, but it is a masochistic route that will probably require lots of tape so I don't slice my tips off.

Did you get on Temperance and Hroom? Mar 14, 2012
Joe M.    
Anyone send the sit yet? I sent the stand the other day with slightly different beta. Started left hand on the crimp, but right hand gaston on the left facing crimp right on the arete. Those flakes on the right side of the arete suck. I was able to stick the gaston crimp from a sit but couldn't make the next move. The sit will be a high quality problem (as is the stand). I also did a sit start to the right of the arete, had chalk on it so I assumed it had been done. Left high on flake, right on undercling, right up to a small crimp, then adjust feet then pop to the right facing jug sidepull, easy climbing to the top. Mar 14, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Good name Mar 12, 2012
Treehugger! Mar 12, 2012