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Routes in Serpent Wall

Antivenin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blank Page S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Primero S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flakey Tigress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Bless the IRS S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
KB5 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moraccan Snake Charmer (5.11b variation) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moraccan Snake Charmer (TR variation) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moroccan Snake Charmer S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sidewinder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slither S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 280 total, 4/month
Shared By: J. Thornton on Mar 11, 2012
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Start climb with 5.10 moves to get over the bulge at bottom. The moves are much easier above the bulge in the middle part of the route. After clipping the second bolt, climb thru thin crux moves as the wall steepens below the anchors. A fun crux sequence requiring good foot work.

Location

Right side of Serpent Wall.

Protection

2 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

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Seleucus
Dallas, Texas
 
Seleucus   Dallas, Texas
 
FWIW: I'm 5ft 10in and I found the bolts to be perfectly spaced, I was able to clip them without feeling sketched out because I was able to clip both of them from a solid stance. That being said, if I was 2-3 inches shorter, I think the second bolt would have been far more scary and a ground-fall would have been in play. Jan 22, 2017
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
I only found 2 bolts on this route. I think this is actually a great route becuase there is not a lot else like it. The bolts are pretty spaced, yet perfectly placed giving the route a bit of a heady feel but without any real danger. The climbing in the second half is slabbly in a trad kind of way that I haven't seen a lot of at Reimer's. Feb 16, 2013