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Routes in King Boulder

Ace V8 7B
Atomic Pleasure V6 7A
Crescent Moon V6+ 7A
Dermal Avenger V1 5
I Am Ahab V5-6 6C+
Kerosine V5+ 6C+
Kerosine on Fire V6-7 7A+
Knee Fucker V5 6C
New Speedway Boogie V3 6A
Nuclear Delight V2 5+
Prince of Crimps V8 7B
Return Of The B-Boy V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: FA: Morgan Patterson, SA: Nate Lambiec
Page Views: 1,362 total, 19/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Sit start on the left side of the large horizontal on the eastern overhanging face. From the horizontal fire up to the bar then up left and then out right to the crimper and fire to the lip. Classy moves for a classic problem. A+ on movement!

Protection

3 pads

Photos

Steve Wong  
 
Good line. Variations feels almost as hard as any, with the left variation slightly easier. No real difference IMO. Apr 19, 2017
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
I think the last crimp on this broke... ;-( not as friendly as i recall. Aug 25, 2016
Hans Reuter
  V6
Hans Reuter  
  V6
Loved this climb! Great movement on positive holds. Ive gotta take time to try the other climbs on this boulder. Mar 26, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Was out this weekend lookin at this rock... If you started on Kerosine and ended up on the finishing mantle shown on Ahab vid, then it'd be a link up of the two ;-). The problems both have two distinct starts, finishes, and only share one hold.

I added a beta pic. Kerosine has some amazing movement if you get the sequence right. I will say matching that hold ruins a lot of cool movement. Throwing to the crimp dish is fun, setting up and throwing for the crimp is awesome, sticking it and slapping the arete is rad, and then final throw to the jug before the tricky mantle rounds it out as a classic in my book. Sep 21, 2015
czd
czd  
Bouldering is funny. The way I climbed "Kerosine" was what Morgan describes except I matched the triangular hold (that "I am ahab" and "Kerosine" share) and moved out left to the sloper on the arete that is used in the video.

Are the three problems? two problems? one with differnet beta? does it matter? who knows! Sep 20, 2015
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
  V5+
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
  V5+
I agree with it being a variation, I climbed 2-3 moves to the right, glad to see someone climbing at the basin! Jun 4, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
In the world of bouldering, I would say that's a different line but shares a hold with Kerosine. Kerosine starts just to your right, goes up right first, then big move w/ left (to the hold you grab with your right), then to a crimp out right and up right to the dish and mantel. I would consider it a variation or a new line and you should add it to MP. Thanks for sharing bud! Jun 1, 2015
Will Cornell
  V5-6
Will Cornell  
  V5-6
Hey Morgan, sorry about that. Youtube was buggin' out. Here's the proper link:

youtube.com/watch?v=MIwvgcP…

Based on the pictures you uploaded, it looks like I escaped and topped out a little too far to the left which shaves off a move or two... However, I would definitely say those two moves are pretty banger and are followed by a tricky mantel. It felt pretty tough. What do you think?? May 30, 2015
Sent this today and was really stoked. for sure the hardest boudler I've climbed yet. the block at the base is only annoying for the first move. i just started on holds like a foot to the right. Apr 18, 2014
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
  V5+
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
  V5+
The one on Atomic didnt bother me nearly as much. I am sure you could start this further to the right...I was just going by the chalked starting holds Oct 2, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
With the right beta I never even come close to touching it... but it could be reshaped to be less in the way. That and the one in front of Atomic Pleasure too. Oct 2, 2013
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
  V5+
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
  V5+
would have given it more stars but the (dab block) in front of the climb was annoying Oct 1, 2013