Temperance

This problem is worth the Trip out the Found Boulder alone!! Mar 18, 2012

Super sick problem! Ryan has a video of it he should share. Mar 20, 2012

Not sure how to get the video to show up in the comment box but this will do i guess. ****warning**** IPhone footage
youtube.com/watch?v=3t22osE… Mar 29, 2012

Is this problem not a sit start??? Mar 30, 2012

its a rock climb. Apr 2, 2012

LOL. We'll have to install a pressure plate to record if people reeally fully sit down enough, and send the data in to NEB. Apr 2, 2012

If a problem says its a sit start, then sit down. Really, is following directions that hard??? Apr 3, 2012

I wasn't too concerned if people sat with full weight on their butts, Joe. That is why I said double stack if you are short. A true butt sit on the ground would entail starting on lower holds for most people, which makes the problem kind of ugly. Starting with your butt a half an inch over the pad or not is not the crux of the problem, though I will give you it may make it 1% easier. If you want to have fun making it harder, start with you right hand on the big flake to the right and work over to the arete, or don't use the high horizontal left of the arete, but head right instead and top out as for Leprechaun Hunt. Apr 3, 2012

HAHAHHA oh man....

Mark that line sounds like fun too! Thanks! Apr 3, 2012

Fair enough on this problem, but the tripod start thing has gotten ridiculous though. Recently, two kids claimed fast ascents of Neil's Nuts, a V11 on the Egg (sit start to Neil's Nose). I asked one of them for beta and it turns out they sent it using a tripod start which skips the very, very hard crux sit start first move. The problem is like V8 without that first move, yet the kid continues to claim that he sent V11 (despite having sent only one V9 prior to this). Apr 3, 2012

No sponsership for them! I fixed the Neil's Nuts description for you, Joe... or maybe the route should just be defined by the starting holds and downgraded. Apr 3, 2012

Funny thread.
The start holds are clearly marked in the Beta photo.
I think Joe or Mark needs to add an "upper back on the ground" start to this (with different start holds of course) and other problems. Full value. Apr 3, 2012

nice... Apr 3, 2012