Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: Dana Seaton/Mark Sprague
Page Views: 1,438 total · 18/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

The left arete of the tall overhanging north side. Sit down under the arete with your right hand on a good edge and left pinching the arete (double pad if you wish if you are short). Work up the arete until you can pop for the good hold in the seam running across the top of the nose. Top out. The upper flake has not been reinforced, so try not to be too brutal with it.

Location

The left arete of the overhanging north face

Protection

pad

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Photos

Chris about to send
Chris about to send
 2
its a go
its a go
 1
Temperance
Temperance
 0

13 Comments

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marctroob
marctroob  
This problem is worth the Trip out the Found Boulder alone!! Mar 18, 2012
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
 
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
 
Super sick problem! Ryan has a video of it he should share. Mar 20, 2012
RyanCahill
 
RyanCahill  
 
Not sure how to get the video to show up in the comment box but this will do i guess. ****warning**** IPhone footage
youtube.com/watch?v=3t22osE… Mar 29, 2012
Joe M.

Joe M.    
Is this problem not a sit start??? Mar 30, 2012
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
 
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
 
its a rock climb. Apr 2, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
LOL. We'll have to install a pressure plate to record if people reeally fully sit down enough, and send the data in to NEB. Apr 2, 2012
Joe M.

Joe M.    
If a problem says its a sit start, then sit down. Really, is following directions that hard??? Apr 3, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I wasn't too concerned if people sat with full weight on their butts, Joe. That is why I said double stack if you are short. A true butt sit on the ground would entail starting on lower holds for most people, which makes the problem kind of ugly. Starting with your butt a half an inch over the pad or not is not the crux of the problem, though I will give you it may make it 1% easier. If you want to have fun making it harder, start with you right hand on the big flake to the right and work over to the arete, or don't use the high horizontal left of the arete, but head right instead and top out as for Leprechaun Hunt. Apr 3, 2012
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
 
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
 
HAHAHHA oh man....

Mark that line sounds like fun too! Thanks! Apr 3, 2012
Joe M.

Joe M.    
Fair enough on this problem, but the tripod start thing has gotten ridiculous though. Recently, two kids claimed fast ascents of Neil's Nuts, a V11 on the Egg (sit start to Neil's Nose). I asked one of them for beta and it turns out they sent it using a tripod start which skips the very, very hard crux sit start first move. The problem is like V8 without that first move, yet the kid continues to claim that he sent V11 (despite having sent only one V9 prior to this). Apr 3, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
No sponsership for them! I fixed the Neil's Nuts description for you, Joe... or maybe the route should just be defined by the starting holds and downgraded. Apr 3, 2012
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Funny thread.
The start holds are clearly marked in the Beta photo.
I think Joe or Mark needs to add an "upper back on the ground" start to this (with different start holds of course) and other problems. Full value. Apr 3, 2012
Joe M.

Joe M.    
nice... Apr 3, 2012